Quantcast
Channel: Zimbabwe – Real Africa Blog
Viewing all 22 articles
Browse latest View live

Spotlight on Victoria Falls

$
0
0

This week we are taking a closer look at one of Africa’s most iconic sights- the Victoria Falls, also known as Mosi-oa-Tunya or the Cloud that Thunders.

One of the most famous waterfalls in the world, the Victoria Falls are created where the River Zambezi drops from the flat plains into a narrow rocky chasm carved out by the river. This chasm or gorge is so narrow that the river is truly squeezed into a tiny space as it pours in, creating the famous river rapids so beloved of white-water rafters. The mighty river cascades over the rocky edge of the plain and falls 355 feet in depth at its mid point and over 5,604 feet in width. It is regarded as the largest waterfall in the world despite it being neither the tallest or widest but a combination of the two.  The Victoria Falls are so special they have UNESCO World Heritage Status. The two main flows of water over the Falls are split by two islands; Cataract Island and Livingstone Island. During the dry season when the water level falls more, islands appear and divide the river into parallel streams all of which have their own names: Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls, Rainbow Falls and the Eastern Cataract.

The highest water levels are between February and May with the peak usually in April when the Falls are at their most powerful. The spray from the Falls rises up to 1,300 feet in the air which can then be seen from up to 30 miles away. In fact the mist cloud is so overwhelming it isn’t possible to see the foot of the waterfall or the gorge! It is best to visit Victoria Falls when the water levels have dropped slightly. Even in the dry months of September to January there is still water pouring through and also various walks along the river and falls are available that are not possible during the wetter months.

David Livingstone the famous Victorian explorer was the first European to see the Falls although there have been many Stone Age discoveries in the area indicating it was a popular spot even 50,000 years ago. It was Livingstone who renamed them Victoria Falls after the reining monarch. He was so enamoured of their beauty he wrote, “No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

The Victoria Falls share the border between both Zambia and Zimbabwe so can be visited from both countries. There is a huge range of accommodation available in both, from small eco-camps to large luxury 5 star hotel resorts. The town of Victoria Falls is in Zimbabwe and the town of Livingstone in Zambia and these both form the main bases for tourism in the area. Other activities around the Falls include bungee jumping, white water rafting, canoeing on the Zambezi and going on safari in the nearby national parks of Zambia or Botswana. Elephant, buffalo, giraffe, crocodiles and hippo are commonly seen on safari, and if you are extremely lucky you might catch a glimpse of a lion or leopard.

By Ruth Hardy


David Livingstone’s 200th anniversary

$
0
0

Today the 19th of March 2013 is the 200th Anniversary of the famous explorer David Livingstone’s Birthday and we wanted to mark the day as remembrance for this remarkable man. He was an unassuming Scottish doctor who became a world famous explorer discovering previously unexplored parts of eastern and southern Africa. He was also a missionary spreading Christianity across Africa and he led much of the campaign against the abhorrent slave trade. Livingstone was awarded the gold medal of the Royal Geographical Society of London and was made a Fellow of the society, with which he had a strong association for the rest of his life. He was also at the forefront of the wave of European explorers that led eventually to the European colonisation of much of Africa. His motto to be found on his statue by the Falls was in fact “Christianity, Commerce and Civilisation”.

He travelled widely throughout sub-Saharan Africa and was the first European to cross Africa from its west coast in Angola to the east cost in Mozambique. He crossed the infamous Kalahari Desert in Botswana which in those days was an epic undertaking. He later started exploring in East Africa, first in Zanzibar then covering much of Kenya and Tanzania in his mission to find the source of the Nile (which sadly eluded him and many others).  He opened up much of the continent to Christianity and other missions as well as setting up the first trade routes which would go on to become vitally important to the area. He made significant contributions by diligently mapping the areas he had been too.  He was also instrumental in helping the fight against the horrendous slave trade which disappeared from East and Southern Africa a long time before West Africa finally ended the trade. After witnessing a massacre by slave traders he gave up his quest for the Nile and told newspapers that his fight against the slave trade was by far the most important quest in his life.

He was also the first European ever to witness the mighty Victoria Falls in 1855 and it was he who named them after Queen Victoria.  He is famously said to have been so entranced with the beauty of the Falls that he is often quoted as having said of the views: “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” The Victoria Falls which form the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe are the place most closely associated with David Livingstone and there is a large bronze statue of him found close to the Falls in Zimbabwe. The town of Livingstone on the Zambian side of the Falls still bears his name to this day.  In fact the town of Livingstone will be running festivals and celebrations all year to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the birth of their namesake. David Livingstone died in Zambia from malaria in 1873 but his loyal followers carried his body for thousands of miles before it was eventually buried in Westminster Abbey.

 

 

The Big Five Series – Our Five Favourite Waterfalls in Africa

$
0
0

Continuing on with our series looking at the Real Africa’s team’s favourite places this week we were all voting on our favourite waterfalls! It sounds a bit obscure at first but actually a stunning waterfall can be an amazing attraction for a country and an unmissable stop on an itinerary. Just think Niagara Falls in the USA, Iguassu Falls in Brazil and Angel Falls in Venezuela. They tend to go hand in hand with stunning scenery and are jaw dropping in either their power or their size.

Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe and Zambia)

Of course first up, the most famous waterfall in Africa and perhaps the world, its Victoria Falls also known as Mosi-oa-Tunya or the Cloud that Thunders. Victoria Falls were created where the River Zambezi drops from the flat plains into a narrow rocky chasm carved out over thousands of years by the river. This chasm or gorge is so narrow that the river is truly squeezed into a tiny space as it pours in, creating the famous river rapids so beloved of white-water rafters. The mighty river cascades over the rocky edge of the plain and falls 355 feet in depth at its mid point and over 5,604 feet in width. It is regarded as the largest waterfall in the world despite it being neither the tallest or widest but a combination of the two.  The Victoria Falls are so special they have UNESCO World Heritage Status. The two main flows of water over the Falls are split by two islands; Cataract Island and Livingstone Island. During the dry season when the water level falls more, islands appear and divide the river into parallel streams all of which have their own names: Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls, Rainbow Falls and the Eastern Cataract.

The highest water levels are between February and May with the peak usually in April when the Falls are at their most powerful. The spray from the Falls rises up to 1,300 feet in the air which can then be seen from up to 30 miles away. In fact the mist cloud is so overwhelming it isn’t possible to see the foot of the waterfall or the gorge

David Livingstone the famous Victorian explorer was the first European to see the Falls although there have been many Stone Age discoveries in the area indicating it was a popular spot even 50,000 years ago. It was Livingstone who renamed them Victoria Falls after the reining monarch. He was so enamoured of their beauty he wrote, “No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

Murchison Falls (Uganda)

Another one of David Livingstone’s discoveries is the truly stunning Murchison Falls in the Murchison National Park in Uganda. This is the White Nile river and all its power comes roaring through a tiny gap in the rocks just 23 feet wide.  It then plunges 141 feet to a swirling pool below known as the Devil’s Cauldron. This huge river is squeezed through such a tiny hole that the water comes out with tremendous force making it truly spectacular despite not being massively tall or wide. The Falls are also called Kabarega Falls in their native language are between Lake Victoria and Lake Albert named after the British monarchy by Livingstone again. The outlet from Lake Victoria is about 11,000 cubic feet a second which is then squeezed through this tiny gap before bursting through the Falls with such immense power it’s mind boggling. You travel to the Falls by boat from nearby safari lodges and you can also climb up alongside the falls for a closer view.

Thomson’s Falls (Kenya)

Thomson’s Falls is a beautiful waterfalls on the Ewaso Ng’iro river in Kenya. It drains the water which falls on the Aberdare Mountain Range at an elevation of 7,750 ft. The waterfall itself drops by 243 feet.  Yet again it was another Scottish geologist and explorer, Joseph Thomson,  who discovered them in the 1880s. At least he named them after his father rather than the monarchy again!  The heavy mist and water vapour from the waterfall helps keep the cloud-forest below dense and lush making it an excellent spot for wildlife and there are also hippos further up river. Visitors can walk a trail along the ravine at the bottom or view the Falls from the top from another marked trail and viewpoint.  Visitors can view the falls from above, or there’s also a trail down to the bottom of the ravine.

Kalambo Falls (Tanzania)

The Kalambo Falls are on the border between Zambia and Tanzania at the south-eastern end of Lake Tanganyika. The single drop fall of 772ft is one of the tallest uninterrupted falls in the whole of Africa. Downstream from the waterfall the Kalambo River cuts through the Kalambo Gorge winds its way through the Rift Valley for about 3 miles before opening out into the lake.

Interestingly this spot in the Great Rift Valley which spans East Africa is also historically very important. It would appear the Kalambo Falls have been attracting visitors for a very, very long time and it is one of the most important archaeological sites in the whole of Africa. In the 1950s archaeologists digging in the area discovered traces of human activity dating back to more than two hundred and fifty thousand years ago.

Tugela Falls  ( South Africa)

Mpumalanga in South Africa is home to many, many fantastic waterfalls due to its stunningly beautiful mountain range, the Drakensberg Mountains.  Tugela Falls is the world’s second highest waterfall after Angel Falls in Venezuela. In fact the name Tugela means sudden in Zulu the native language. And sudden they certainly are.  The total drop in five fabulous falls is an impressive 3,110 feet!  The Falls are in the protected area of the Royal Natal National Park in KwaZulu-Natal Province and they have been made accessible to visitors whilst protecting the scenery and wildlife in the area. You can even see them from the main road in the park if you are lucky enough to be there after a heavy rainfall. The source of the Tugela River is the Mont-Aux-Sources mountain plateau which then cuts down through the spectacular cliff called the Amphitheatre and it is from there that the waterfall makes its spectacular drop

Visitors can hike two trails to see the Falls. The most dramatic trail is to the top of Mount-Aux-Sources, where you can climb to the top of the Amphitheatre. However it is only for the fit as it can take all day and there are several vertical chain ladders to tackle.  It is much easier to view the Falls from below from the National Park along a 4 mile hike up the Tugela Gorge. You do still have to climb rocks and a short chain ladder to access the falls at the end. However the hike and the climb are most definitely worth it as the view of these staggeringly high falls is jaw dropping!

Posted by Ruth Bolton


 

Travel guide to Zimbabwe, the Land of the Falcons

$
0
0

After a decade of being off the safari map, Zimbabwe is back. Our consultant Lily, a frequent visitor there before the troubles, returns, keen to revisit one of her favourite countries. In her report she takes you to the great attractions this wonderful country has to offer, as well as reports and insights into some of the lodges and camps, and a brief history of its parks, attractions and people. For more information, please visit the Guide to Zimbabwe on our web site.

Day 1

10h40- flew South African Airways SA22 to Harare arriving 12h20.  Given immigration forms on plane for completion.  Queued at immigration and paid USD$55 for visa which was very straightforward process.  Into the Arrivals Hall and there was Peter from Meikles Hotel waiting for us with my name on board.. such a welcome sight.  An almost Livingstone- Stanley ‘I Presume’ moment!  From the background, strode Eisenhower, a very tall black man who introduced himself as the Customer Services man and had come to give us a special welcome to Zimbabwe.

General impression of Harare airport so far was that everything functioning normally although not as many airport shops as in Heathrow.. Clean but a little bare noticeable in contrast to all our Western clutter!

Smart mini bus transfer into town – limited cars on road and not as many people around as in e.g. Nairobi between JKIA and town.

Now a short history to set the background to Harare and Zimbabwe.

The Pioneer Column, a military volunteer force of settlers organised by Cecil Rhodes, founded the city on 12 September 1890 as a fort. They originally named the city Fort Salisbury after the 3rd Marques of Salisbury, the British prime minister, and it subsequently became known simply as Salisbury. The Salisbury Polo Club was formed in 1896. It was declared to be a municipality in 1897 and it became a city in 1935.

Salisbury was the capital of the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland from 1953 to 1963. After that point, it was the capital of Southern Rhodesia. The government of Ian Smith declared Rhodesia independent from the United Kingdom on November 11, 1965, and proclaimed theRepublic of Rhodesia in 1970. Subsequently, the nation became the short-lived state of Zimbabwe Rhodesia; it was not until April 18, 1980, that the country was internationally recognized as independent as the Republic of Zimbabwe.

Post-independence (1980–1998)

The capital city retained the name Salisbury until 1982.

The name of the city was changed to Harare on April 18, 1982, the second anniversary of Zimbabwean independence, taking its name from the Shona chieftain Neharawa. It is also said the name derived from the European corruption of “Haarari” (“He does not sleep”), the epithet of the chief whose citadel was located in the area known today as the Kopje. It was said that no enemy could ever launch a sneak attack on him. Prior to independence, “Harare” was the name of the Black residential area now known as Mbare.

Robert Mugabe was the first leader of Zimbabwe and still clings on to power since 1987. He initially pursued a policy of reconciliation towards the white population but severity towards regions which had supported a competing guerilla group aided by North Korean military advisors. From 2000 onwards, Mugabe instituted a policy of extensive land redistribution on party political lines favouring his cronies and of “national service” camps. As a direct result of Mugabe’s misrule, the economy was destroyed, inflation shot up, informal homes and businesses were destroyed, and there were severe shortages of food, fuel and medicine, together with the disappearance of the professional class and the emergence of mass unemployment. Life has grown miserable for Zimbabweans of all colours and they have left the country in large numbers. The prospects of real change still seem remote until the death of Mugabe and his cronies.

Economic difficulties and hyperinflation (1999–2008)

In the early 21st century Harare has been adversely affected by the political and economic crisis that is currently plaguing Zimbabwe, after the contested 2002 presidential election and 2005 parliamentary elections. The elected council was replaced by a government-appointed commission for alleged inefficiency, but essential services such as rubbish collection and street repairs have rapidly worsened, and are now virtually non-existent. In May 2006 the Zimbabwean newspaper the Financial Gazette, described the city in an editorial as a “sunshine city-turned-sewage farm”.

In 2009, Harare was voted to be the toughest city to live in according to the Economist Intelligence Unit’s livability poll.

The Zimbabwean dollar currency went out of control, a loaf of bread costing about 3 trillion dollars! and in February 2009 the country became USD$ based overnight which has made a tremendous improvement to the country.

The feeling in Zimbabwe in 2013 surprised and delighted us.  Everyone I spoke to is very positive and forward thinking with big investment taking place in the country generally as well as in the tourist industry now the second biggest industry after mining in the country.  Diamonds have been discovered recently north of Harare.

Fuel USD$1.36 per litre which is cheaper than UK.

Arrived at the centrally located Meikles Hotel overlooking Africa Unity Square which is THE hotel in Harare and has been since it opened in 1915, part of the Leading Hotels of the World prestigious group.  Somehow, even through the difficult times, it has retained its five star grandeur.

The lobby and foyer convey tranquil old-world opulence, complete with smartly dressed doorment (in dark green livery), deep pile carpets and huge bowls of fresh flowers on polished wooden tables.  I certainly had a very warm welcome with members of staff including the manager, Karl Snater, coming to say ‘hello’ while I checked in at the VIP desk!

Meikles Lounge and the Explorers Bar are two popular places with the ‘locals’ to eat or enjoy drinks.  The terrace restaurant is highly recommended as well being well known for its good food.

My deluxe front room overlooked African Unity Square and I noticed the flower sellers had set up their stalls giving a blaze of colour just like they had in the year 2000 when I last stayed at Meikles.  Apparently during the troubled times the flower sellers disappeared, but now they are back which is an excellent sign.

The room was very comfortable just as one would expect from a 5 star property in any city of the world.  No wifi in room but available in the lobby.

I was given a very thorough site inspection by Sitzi from Customer Services at 3pm and she showed me all types of room category from deluxe front to deluxe back to Club rooms, Royal Suite and also the new North Wing (£7million investment) which will be entirely Club Rooms on the 11th /12th floors plus a Presidential Suite.  We picked our way round the workmen/hard hats and it is hoped the Wing will be open later this year.

Such is the positive approach for the present and future in Zimbabwe.  I was most impressed by the care Sitzi took with showing me the many attributes of Meikles Hotel not forgetting the Spa and Gym and the roof top pool.

Meikles has currently 305 rooms in total.

There is a walk way through to the Eastgate Shopping Centre which opened in 1996. The architect, Mick Pearce, designed the building to be ventilated and cooled by entirely natural means and was probably the first building in the world to use natural cooling to this level of sophistication.

At 4pm Victoria Nash from Safaris4Africa (our excellent Real Africa ground handlers for Zimbabwe, Botswana and Zambia) collected me and we drove to Amanzi Lodge.

This is a 5 star boutique hotel in the Borrowdale suburb of Harare (20 minutes from the airport).  The lodge reeks class and comfort in the lounge and dining area and with its stunning waterfalls and spectacular landscaped gardens, filled with rare cycads is truly a memorable African experience. The Lodge has twelve luxury private chalets, all set separately in the gardens. Each chalet is themed in the style of a different African country – with an exceptional collection of African antiquities and contemporary art.  The Amanzi has one of the best restaurants in the city and popular with businessmen as well as the holiday market. Bed and breakfast basis.

From Amanzi Lodge, we drove to Ballantyne’s Lodge in the same area which is a very chic, minimalist style place with twelve luxury rooms. Bed and breakfast basis.

The Armadale Boutique Lodge was our final ‘stop’ and personally my favourite.  Built in 1904. history is evident in the three generation old gardens. The charming farmhouse has been restored with modern amenities and has nine suites with views of the garden and swimming pool.  A thoroughly comfortable, welcoming feel as we sipped red wine sinking deep into a comfortable leather sofa in front of a roaring log fire. Bed and breakfast basis.

Drove short distance to The Bistro restaurant and had delicious meal – international menu which included steak, fish, chicken, salads, puddings, good wine list, very friendly and efficient service.  We arrived about 7pm and by 8pm, the Bistro was full so obviously a really popular place (even though a Wednesday night).

Borrowdale suburb is highly recommended location for clients wanting a stay in Harare but not city centre like Meikles. It has very smart places to stay, good shopping in the Borrowdale centre, good choice of restaurants and only 20 minutes from Harare International Airport.

Back to Meikles and a welcome sleep in a bed rather than an airplane seat like the prev- ious night!

 

Day 2

0700 wake up call followed by very good breakfast in the regular restaurant.

Good to see a blue sky, sunny with coolish breeze.   Weather hardly ever discussed by the locals as they take it for granted when the sun shines!  Interesting to note that when the weather is in early 70′s, its termed ‘winter weather’.  April/May is Autumn and in my opinion an excellent time to travel with sunny days in the 70′s and cooler nights.

We were given a fine farewell from Meikles led by Karl Snater, the manager.  To ease oneself into a country, It is good to start ones journey in the capital city and in our case, at the best hotel in town!  There is a very vibrant feel at Meikles and on the surrounding streets with obvious investment taking place which is all positive for the future of Zimbabwe.

Left the hotel at 0900 to the airport in chauffeur driven limousine, journey time 20 minutes.  Views en route showed the populace getting on with their daily business including the open air stone mason workshop crafting the local sort after soapstone statues including birds (akka the Great Zimbabwe falcons -more later) and the Big Five.  Vehicles and bicycles only heavy at traffic lights.

Arrived at the Domestic Terminal to find a scene reminiscent of the Marie Celeste! toally deserted … and our light aircraft flight with Alt Air was due to take off in 30 minutes!  Gradully figures began appearing  and our pilots (Bruce and Karl who in fact work for Safari Logistics ) appeared about 10 minutes before scheduled take off.  They collected our $15 per person fee and paid it to the necessary government office, put fuel in the tank of our little Cessna 206, loaded their two passengers on board and off we went towards Lake Kariba.

We were the first flight out of the day flying low at first over the outskirts of Harare.  I was expecting to see shanty towns but instead there below were neat, orderly housing areas.  Flew over other areas where previus agriculture could be seen but not tended recently and then further, flew over well tended fields.  Hills border Lake Kariba which we had to fly over with slight ‘bumps’ felt… but what a sight met our eyes below.  The Lake is stunning with its islands and sandy shores.

The flying option of 1.5 hour saves the 468 kilometre, 5 hour road journey from Harare and is worth every penny for its scenic qualities and sheer timesaving option.

Now some background to Lake Kariba and Matusadona National Park.

Zimbabwe’s northern border is formed by the Zambezi River which is dammed at Kariba to form the vast artificial  Lake Kariba which was built to harness electricity to feed industry in Zimbabwe and Zambia.  The dam when it was built in 1957-1959 (by an Italian company) was the largest in the world and still today its size and strength remain awesome.  But it wasn’t built without cost to human from various accidents to heatstroke and the tragic loss of 18 workers who fell into wet concrete during construction.

The greatest tragedy attributed to the building the dam is the uprooting of the Batonga tribe from their ancestral home in the Gwembe section of the Zambezi Valley.  These people had lived here for centuries, making a living from farming and fishing as well as being adept at wood carving, bead work and basket work with their own particular style.  The removal of the Batonga created considerable anguish abroad (not to mention among the people themselves).  Anthropologists rushed to amass details of Batonga society before everything changed.  In 1959, when the last lorry – piled high with evicted villagers and belongings – was on the point of departure from the doomed valley, a small green bush was tied to the vehicle’s tailboard to trail along behind. The villagers explained thiswas to allow their ancestral guardian spirit to ride until they reached their new home.  It was essential that this spirit remained on the ground during the journey for it to settle comfortably into its new surroundings and maintain a relationship with the ancestors.

The Batonga were removed to a very poor place

Little of this heritage seems to have found its way back to enrich the Batonga today.  The people no longer engage in beadwork because they can’t afford to buy the imported beads.  Many heirlooms have been sold off including beautiful stools and carved hut doors to raise money for the next meal.

WALL- 128M HIGH AND 579 M ACROSS.

The completion of the Kariba Dam Wall in 1958 had an immediate and drastic effect on the Zambezi Valley.  As soon as the sluice gates were closed, the river level rose and burst its banks.  With rapidly rising waters came a number of serious problems.  The animals living in the valley had not been removed and suddenly became trapped on hilltops which were quickly shrinking into small islands or drowning when low lying land was flooded.  Wildlife rescue seemed to be an afterthought and at the last minute, three men from the Southern Rhodesian Game Department were tasked with ‘taking any measures necessary to save animals from the floods’.

Thus Rupert Fothergill and a team of 10 men set out on rafts with make shift nets, harnesses and catching poles, and a limited supply of tranquilisers and resources to save the wildlife from the ever increasing expanse of water.

Operation Noah is truly the stuff of legends.  Dead barbell and tiger fish were found floating in the rising lake, bloated to bursting from gorging themselves on the swarms of insects driven from the saturated ground.  Birds lost successive broods of chicks as the

Waters forced them to rebuild their nests in high branches.  The drowned trees were festooned with snakes, moneys and leopards.  Mats of floating vegetation seethed with scorpions.  Mountains became peninsulars and hilltops ever-shrinking islands crowded with game.  The larger animals found swimming in the lake were herded towards shore, or secured to sides of boats with ropes if they showed signs of distress.

‘To capture the deadly black mamba, the wardens use a fishing rod adapted to pull a noose around the snake’s neck; the snakes is then gingerly! Deposited into a pillowcase.  Dassies (shrill voiced, rabbity creatures and porcupines are deliberately driven into the water since, despite their small size, dassies bite when cornered and porcupines has quills.  Even in water, it takes three mean to outwit a porcupine’.

Over the next five years, Fothergill and his team managed to save over 5,000 animals, which included 1,866 impala, 585 warthog, 23 elephant and 6 scaly ant eaters. Many of these animals were released in a beautiful area on the lake edge now known as Matusadona National Park.

Nearly 5200 square kilometres of wilderness died with the valley.  Desolate trees, still poking branches from the water, over fifty years later, bear vivid testimony to the destruction.  But a new ecology has replaced the old in a turn of events that show the resilience of the natural world.  Fish eagles and African darter colonies nest in the branches and the decaying wood feeds underwater life.

Fishing attracts many people to the lake particularly for the fierce tigerfish with their razor sharp teeth.  They have great fighting ability, making determined rushes followed by an impressive leap from the water to shake the hook.

Back to our arrival on Fothergill Island.  We were met by Simon, a very experienced fellow in the safari industry, born and bred in Zimbabwe. Part of the management team at  Changa Camp set on the shores of Lake Kariba where we were due to stay for the next two nights.  Simon and Saiide, the boatman, made us feel instantly at home as we loaded the luggage into the Bazooka boat, made in UK.  Fast ride on the lake passing Spurwing Island where I stayed 20 years ago.  Wildlife viewing included an elephant watching us from a promontory with impala playing in the shallows.

Twenty five minutes later we arrived at Changa Camp.  This is a recently built camp on a private concession with 4.5 kilometres of lake shore.

The rich wilderness area offers exceptional game drives as well as walking and fishing safaris, all in the company of highly trained professional guides. Healthy populations of predators, including lion, leopard, hyena and cheetah as well as elephant, buffalo and antelope frequent the shoreline. Hippos and crocodiles are abundant in the cool waters. If  you are very lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the last remaining Black Rhinos. Birdlife is prolific, with 350 species having been identified in the area.

We were shown to Tent 4, one of six tastefully furnished, fan cooled, spacious deluxe East African style tented suites. with its own private deck and stunning views of the mysterious Matusadona Mountains across the inland sea of Lake Kariba.   We had shower inside and outside plus claw Victorian outside bath.  Could have stayed here for a week!  (Fully inclusive food, drinks, activities)

Tasty lunch behind the sandy beach in front of the mess area.

Relaxed in the afternoon followed by cup of tea and cake.  Met the other guests in camp including three generations of a French family living in Harare, two Americans from Montana and a German journalist.  Lake Kariba beckoned and four of us plus Simon and Kingsley (the guide) loaded up into the Bazooka for a trip on the lake.

Such a relaxing experience being on boat in the middle of a lake… motored close into shore looking out for game which included some waterbuck.  The strident call of the iconic African fish eagle brought our attention to the high branches of a jackelberry tree.  It is said if you hear the cry of the fish eagle, you will always come back to Africa.
The light was perfect and the reflections in the water from the trees some with fish eagles  and the escarpment behind.  It was pure magic and I noticed two houseboats moored near the shoreline and felt a mild shot of envy that the occupants were enjoying such a close rapport with this amazing area. There was also a tender boat with about 6 people on board, some fishing, other just enjoying the ambience of this magical scene… with a drink in hand.

Easily the best way to explore Lake Kariba is on a houseboat, cruising around the islands and creeks and along the shore of the Matusadona National Park.  Very comfortable and very popular leisure activity with great opportunities for game spotting as the animals come down to the water to drink.  For those interested, good chance of catching tiger fish and bream from a tender boat.  Dozens of houseboats in Kariba’s harbour most being pontoons with large boxey double-structures on top.  Ensuite bedrooms, air conditioning, lounge and bar area.  Ideal for a group of friends or two families travelling together with three nights being average length of stay. This is definitely something I would like to do on my next visit to Lake Kariba.

When the land was flooded, the tops of many trees in the lake remained above water.  The mopane and leadwood trees (among the world’s hardest woods) lost their foliage and died but did not rot immediately.  Without their leaves, and because of the hardness of the wood, they appear to have fossilized.

It makes an intriguing sight to see the branches sticking out of the water but still doing a useful job as they are a favourite perch for the rich bird population of the lake such as African Darters, African fish eagles, Reed cormorants etc.

Other bird species noted during our sunset cruise were Blacksmith’s plovers and white throated bee eaters.

Watch Lily’s video of Lake Kariba here.

As the time ticked away towards sunset, the light on the lake was constantly changing.  The water became a most amazing milky irredescent blue with the fossilized branches of mopane and leadwood trees breaking up the smooth panorama of the still lake. We were sailing towards a group of trees which were ‘thick’ with African darters silouhetted against the background sunset of blazing pink, crimson and purple… unforgettable!

Back to Changa Camp jetty and around 1915 enjoyed drinks in the comfortable lounge area behind the beach followed by lively supper including delicious roast beef at the communal table.  All inclusive basis so drinks included which always I feel leads to a relaxed atmosphere not having to worry about the cost of drinks!  Suddenly we were shushed into silence by Simon.

‘Turn round and look at the beach…. we have company’…. and there was the grey shape of an elephant watching us from the foliage by the side of the beach.  Very quietly the huge animal came out into the moonlight and walked slowly along the water’s edge followed by a fellow pachyderm.  They were very relaxed and sensed we were no threat to their evening stroll!… Disappearing as silently as they had appeared into the trees just yards from where we were sitting.

For several seconds after the beasts had melted into the darkness, no one spoke we were all awestruck at what we had been privileged to see.

That’s Africa for you… never quite knowing what is ‘round the corner’.

Lulled to sleep by the honking of hippos just yards away on the lake shore.

 

Day 3

up at 0545, coffee and biscuits in mess tent then off on game drive with guide Kingsley and another guest called, Rudi, a very thin German gentleman of advanced years.  Left camp at 0645 and drove about 45 minutes (meeting about 12 elephants on the way) to an open area where we left the vehicle and set off on foot (Kingsley armed with rifle).

Walked for about 2.5 hours and the most threatening mammal we saw were two impalas which suited me fine.  Gone are the days when I thought it would be such fun to have an elephant , buffalo or lion encounter!

However, the bird life was very varied e.g. golden oriole, marabou stork, fork tailed drongo, fish eagle, lilac breasted roller, African darter, eagle owl, grey and red hornbill, bateleur eagle, Namaqua dove, white fronted bee eaters.

We stopped for coffee and cookies about 1000 and I asked Kingsley why we had seen no herds of buffalo (nyati) or big prides of lion that I remembered from my previous visit to Kariba (Spurwing Island) in 1994.  He told me it was all to do with the rising level of the Lake which drowned the grazing areas for the big herds of buffalo.

The buffalo in their weakened state were easily picked off by the strong lion prides then when the buffalo had dwindled the lions had to move to new areas in the Matusadona.

then back to camp for 1100.

Tasty buffet lunch shared with Simon then relaxed until afternoon activity after tea and cake.

Our afternoon activity was quite memorable… again! We took the Bazooka speed boat across to the Sanyati Gorge which branches off Lake Kariba.

This area of course was flooded in the late 50’s along with several villages now lying submerged beneath the dark waters.

Fascinating sailing up the steep sides gorge decorated with African chestnut trees with white trunks and displaying their beautiful yellow flowers. Occasionally drifting to the sides and on one occasion we saw a well disguised elephant amongst the foliage watching us watch him.  His trunk had been damaged in some way, even shortened but seemed to be healing and it didn’t affect his ability to pick up tasty bites from the trees or ground.  Also saw guinea fowl scampering about as they so often do later in the day.

We motored up the gorge for about an hour, then had sundowners.  I felt all the time we were being watched … maybe the spirits of the flooded villages??

On the way back down the brooding gorge, the light was fading fast but as we burst back onto the Lake the sun was still shining albeit rather muted with sunset approaching.

We speeded back across the lake to Changa Camp.

Freshened up for supper and when we arrived back at the mess area, we found that supper was to be enjoyed on the beach (where we’d see the elephants last night).  There was a long table set up for all the guests with lanterns lighting up the welcoming scene.  We enjoyed a braai with various meats included sirloin steak … all delicious.  Lively dinner chat.. but no word from the elies tonight.

Simon brought out his guitar after supper and serenaded us as we sat round the beach camp fire.  Quite quickly we realised he could sing and play just about any request..  was quite a surreal situation singing folk songs in the moonlight on the shores of Lake Kariba!  All boded well for a good night’s sleep.

 

Day 4

Up 0700, breakfast then said our goodbye’s to Changa Camp and its special people. Down to the jetty and loaded into the speed boat (Bazooka) and whisked across the lake with Simon and Saaide to Fothergill Island and the airstrip.

Our Cessna 205 with pilots Barry and Karl arrived as promised – and off we flew taking 1.5 hours to reach Hwange Main airstrip.

We were greeted on arrival by David Carson, part owner of Camp Hwange, in Hwange National Park.  David is a very experienced ZimPro guide who has been running mobile and safari operations for many years.  We found out just how experienced he was in the next 24 hours.

David loaded us into the open top safari vehicle and warned us it would be cool so ‘wrap up well’ and I was very pleased I’d brought my scarf, Andean hat with ear flaps and gloves.

Road very good and maintained well which was surprising given the history of the Park over the troubled years.  David said somehow the money had been found for the upkeep of roads in Zimbabwe although the municipal roads were in a poorer state.

Stopped at National Park barrier by two stern looking lady park officials who gave the vehicle keen scrutiny then arrived at Hwange National Park Headquarters where park fees, paperwork had to be completed.

Pleasant place with relaxed feel.

Wandered around and found a bit of history of Hwange which is interesting to record and set the scene for where we would spend the next 4 days exploring the different areas of the Park and environs.

Game-driving in Hwange National Park – waterhole

Hwange National Park is the largest national park in Zimbabwe and covers 14,650 square kilometres, about the size of Belgium.. larger than all of Zimbabwe’s other national parks put together.  It is less than two hours’ drive southwast of Victoria Falls and makes a popular add-on safari from the Falls.  Driving from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, travellers will pass the main turn-off to the gate and is very convenient to make a stop there for safari.

The Park was the royal national hunting grounds of the Ndebele warrior king, Mzilikazi in the early 19th century and was set aside as a national park in 1929.

It was declared by the Rhodesian government as one of the last retreats for game animals not threatened by human encroachment.  Additionally because of the presence of tsetse fly (which kills cows) the land couldn’t be commercially farmed.  The first warden was Ted Davison who held the job for 33 years and developed the roads, camps and boreholes.

The town of Hwange was founded in 1899 when coal was discovered and is located just outside the National Park. The ‘village’ grew to accommodate mine workers and today Hwange Colliery is the biggest coal mine in Zimbabwe, producing over 5 million tons of coal per year.

Hwange boasts a tremendous variety of wildlife with over 100 species of mammal and nearly 400 bird species.  The elephants of Hwange are famous and the park’s elephant population is one of the largest n the world, though they migrate to and from Chobe National Park in Botswana depending on the season and estimates of their number range from 20,000 to 75,000.

Although when we stopped to look at a point of flora or fauna interest, the sun beat down. Marvelled at the teak forests by roadside, very green as they have long roots which go down to the water table.  Other sightings were male kudu and giraffe (Southern).  He was a constant source of entertaining information as we drove first to the Park

Headquarters to ‘check in’ and then on through the Park to Camp Hwange in the eastern Sinamatella area, journey time in all two hours. Various sightings on the way to camp i.e. elephants, bateleur eagle (or brown snake eagle), purple roller, crowned crane, saddlebill stork, secretary birds, cape teals, and in the floral kingdom I would like to mention two unusual (for me) sightings of African lilies and Gardenia trees (much liked by giraffes).

We arrived at Camp Hwange to a very warm welcome from Sylvie, Andy and their team  – probably because everyone was waiting to eat lunch and our late arrival was holding up hungry appetites!  Large and spacious thatch roofed boma area with dining area (long table where all guests eat together), bar and comfortable lounge area.  Stylishly furnished a la African chic, with camp fire area in front with waterhole and hide in the background.

(Fully inclusive of food, drinks, activities)

Camp Hwange can best be described as a comfortable, classic bush camp for people who want to connect with nature and the wildlife in this very game-rich area of the park.

Shown to our chalet/tent by Sylvie Pons from France, old Africa hand and part owner of Camp Hwange who told us all about the building of the camp and furnishing the tents etc.  There are 8 large canvas walled en suite chalets (with canvas and guaze walls) positioned in a semi circle to overlook the busy waterhole. Each tent is furnished with stylish simplicity and en suite facilities.

There is a unique log pile hide in the shade near the waterhole where camp guests can visit escorted by one of the guide’s so that you may have a close up view of all the ‘visitors’ coming to drink and carry out their ablutions.

No internet at camp.

What struck me was the great enthusiasm and pride in Camp Hwange from everyone we met beginning with David Carson’s at the airstrip.

Quick but delicious lunch then we prepared to go out with David on a game experience combining a game drive with a game walk tracking elephants!

What we were quickly coming to realise is that Camp Hwange is really all about is the wilderness experience and getting out amongst it!.. and this is what we were about to do only we didn’t realise how close we would get to the wilderness experience!

The emphasis is on flexible, knowledgeable and charismatic guiding all in comfortable surroundings. 

Cup of tea and cake around 1600 then David loaded Marie Aud, Gabrielle, Jean and I onto the game drive vehicle.  Drove about 25 minutes to open area where David parked in the shade of an ebony tree.  Now we were about to embark on a game walk and find out why David Parsons is one of the best guides in Zimbabwe.  He gave us the all important safety talk which comes down to doing exactly as he says if dangerous game is encountered i.e. don’t run! Told how to walk quietly … heel then toe, follow his example at all times.  I had a light rucksack which held water, JVC footage camera, Canon SLR with 75 – 350 mm and 28 – 75mm lenses.

The late afternoon light was golden and the sky very blue.  The terrain was open with some shrubs dotted about.

David pointed out elephant in the distance and we stopped.  He spoke in a whisper explaining that it was likely we would find elephants in a dried out river bed to the left… He kept checking the wind direction and confirmed that the wind although very little was blowing away from us and we would be fine as long as we kept upwind from the elies.  They have acute sense of smell and it was very important that they should not be aware of

our presence or they would scarper.  I guessed this must be a regular pattern at this time of day when animals were on their way to the main waterholes to drink.

We walked in line very quietly (heel .. toe) towards the banking above the river bed then David dropped into crouching position then sitting position.  Shuffled on our ‘derrieres’ to the edge of the banking and there was the unforgettable sight of eight bull elephants of varying ages, totally relaxed, spread out along the river bed.  Some were digging for water, others just standing enjoying the peace and quiet of the end of the day.  The early evening light was perfect for photography and I got some very interesting footage, not easy when I was trying to be as quiet as possible!  Every time I moved, dried out autumnal leaves crackled and I was sure the pachyderms with their keen ears would be alerted to our presence.

We were all feeling so lucky to be only a few yards from the beasts who appeared totally unaware of us when suddenly a spat broke out between two of the group.and the weaker elephant ran up the banking a few yards from where we were sitting.  Despite David’s earlier instructions, we all went into what I would call ‘half meerkat position’ getting ready to run!!  Whoa – Ho! the Real Africa JVC camera which I have always guarded with my life, fell to the ground (sorry Rob..fortunately only a few inches onto the dry leaves) and I was rapidly wondering what I could live without if a tree had to be climbed!

Ridiculous really but a natural instinct.  The elie hesitated at the top of the banking which seemed forever with us wondering if he would turn left or right.  We would have been in a delicate position if he’d decided to turn left… although David had a powerful.458 rifle under his arm and would no doubt have fired first a warning shot if the bull elephant has come towards us.

We all breathed a sigh of relief when he turned right and ambled away along the banking.

We headed back to the vehicle in the rapidly decreasing evening light and drove towards

a nearby man made water hole.  Suddenly, a lioness came out of the bush in a front of us and lazily crossed the road – David braked abruptly (and I nearly went flying onto the bonnet of the Land Cruiser!).  David became very excited as he was sure this was a well known lioness who had cubs on the other side of the waterhole.

We drove speedily up the track to the look out point and hide overlooking down over the Masuma waterhole.  By this time, the lioness was quietly walking around the banking and the game including two waterbuck had gone into instant ‘statue mode’ and were watching the predator as she nonchalantly walked past them just a few yards away.

Eventually she went out of site and we could settle down to watch at leisure the tranquil evening scene below us.  A group of elies were at a smaller waterhole a few yards behind the big waterhole for some reason preferring this area.  The evening light washed the bush and wildlife in an ethereal glow and I felt how lucky we were to witness this peaceful scene.  Hippos were honking down below and the sun was slowing sinking below the horizon as we, also quite lazily, drank our gin and tonics!

Back to camp and drinks round the camp fire.  Chatting to other guests, three of whom has just arrived from New Caledonia in the South Pacific – what a journey coming half way round the world and a ten hour time difference!

Lively supper around the ‘long mess table’ with guests from NC, USA, France and England.  Probably one of the best safari suppers I have ever experienced with such a good feeling of ‘aliveness and well being’ throughout.  Oh, and the food we very good too!!

To bed with hot water bottles which felt very snug underneath our duvets.  The night was cold so good to be tucked up well.

 

Day 5

Up at 0545, cup of coffee and biscuit in the mess tent then loaded up for game drive tracking the endangered African painted (or wild) dog.  David was determined we would find the pack and although we saw a lot of tracks, we didn’t see any of these endangered animals.  But the amazing thing was, we felt we had seen them such was David’s enthusiasm and passion.  Even the Painted Dog Conservation team headed by Dr Greg Rasmuissen (based just outside the National Park Gates) were looking for them in their Land Rover but the pack ( had gone off deep into the bush and were definitely not going to ‘say hello’ that morning.  Birds seen on the drive included pearl spotted ow, cape teals, jacana and knob headed coot.

Back to camp for bacon sandwiches… again running late but it is one of Camp Hwange’s rules that there are ‘no rules’ and ‘no time restrictions’.

Camp Hwange has a private concession of 6,000 acres bordering the northern side of Hwange National Park hence plenty of space to offer guests for game drives and walks which is one its specialities.

Left camp with David and headed back to Hwange Main Gate where we met Janice, the manager of Ivory Lodge. Sad farewells to David Carson and off we went with Janice.  Stopped at the Painted Dog Conservation Centre on the tarmac road towards the turn off for Ivory Lodge and Khulu Ivory Camp.  The Painted Dogs, also known as African wild dogs, are unique to Africa and they are among the continent’s most endangered species.  It is estimated only a mere 3,000 remain.

The population in Zimbabwe is one of the last strongholds of the species and this conservation charity, funded mostly by overseas donations, provides a refuge for rescued wild dogs, mostly pups that have lost their moters to lions.  They are also involved in

anti-poaching in Hwange National Park where wild dog get caught and killed in wire snares, which have been put down by poachers to trap antelope.  The centre has collected about 15,000 wire snares from in and around the park and it is possible to buy sculptures made of this wire which are for sale in the Centre shop (which I did).  The centre is excellent and we particularly enjoyed the giant book pages telling the story of Eyespot, a painted dog ‘pups’ journey through life relating what each season (and set of circumstances) brought as his life developed.  We walked along the elevated boardwalk over a large enclosure that is home to the dogs.  Wherever possible they are returned to the wild and the current population in Hwange is over 750 dogs.

A most informative place and highly recommended.

Drove along the tarmac road until turn off for Khulu Ivory, located on a private concession of 6,000 acres just outside Hwange National Park.  It is situated close to its sister property, long established Ivory Lodge where we would visit the following day.

Instantly liked Khulu Ivory (‘Grandfather of Ivory’) which combines luxurious and private tented accommodation on platforms.  Designed for those who are looking for a real escape, Khulu caters for no more than twelve guests.  This intimate camp comprises of six bespoke thatched safari style suites built onto platforms. The rooms are well appointed and each designed in a modern contemporary style.  Each suite has an indoor and outdoor shower, a balcony for game viewing and individual tea and coffee making facilities.  The beds are twins, but can be converted to super king size for double occupancy. Khulu has been carefully designed to have minimal impact to its surroundings and the environment and I can thoroughly agree with this statement as we felt very much part of the natural surroundings in this camp.

Khulu overlooks an ancient riverbed, in today’s terms called a ‘vlei’ and the waterhole in this vlei is known to attract a variety of the greatest wildlife and birds.   Khulu’s main area has a full bar and provides a wide variety of local and imported beverages.  There is a plunge pool located on the deck of the main area, as well as a raised fire pit for stargazing and night caps.  All the camps water is from our borehole and there is an on site laundry service.  Wifi in mess area.

Khulu Ivory offers guests guided game viewing on the private concession and/or in the National Park. (full board inc drinks/activities)

Activities on offer are; half or full day game drives, night drives, visits to the Painted Dog Conservation Centre, walking safaris, pan/hide sits and game counts (on request).

Made ourselves at home, which actually means caught up with some washing! which dried very quickly on the balcony rail of the tent in full sunshine.

Delicious lunch enjoyed with two American couples; Roy, the quiet manager and his chatty wife, Candice.

Relaxed after lunch until time for afternoon game drive, followed by a game walk with Roy in the lead, armed with rifle.  Open vlei areas and woodland – saw lion tracks, baboons, giraffes, warhog, and many birds including white backed vultures.  Back to camp for 1820 and after a quick ‘freshen up’ we picked our way, torches in hand, along the path to the mess tent.

We enjoyed supper (which included a delicious local recipe of chicken on a braai cooked with half a can of beer inside it covered with a potjie pot!) with Khulu himself, otherwise known as Cedric Wilde, who is one of the directors of Khulu (and sister, Ivory Lodge) and a third generation Zimbabwean.  He lost his farm during the earlier ‘troubles’ and endured two years with squatters on his farm, before he was evicted in 2004.  He then bought a game farm but his animals were killed and he was thrown in jail for 4 days.

He refused to be beaten by the politics in power and now he is in partnership with his daughter, Sharon Stead and husband, who own Ivory Lodge.  The concept of Khulu Ivory took place and it is a total credit to the family, in difficult circumstance, that this stunning camp has evolved.  Cedric built Khulu Ivory showing his particular talent for innovation and imagination which was in fact first brought to the fore when he built Camp Amalinda in the Matopos Hills in 1990.

It was very enlightening to have straight talking, no nonsense version of life in Zimbabwe 2013 style.

After supper we went round the camp fire, for shots of Amarula, when suddenly as if the smell of the delicious liqueur made from the fruit of the amarula tree (beloved of elephants) had carried into the darkness… a big bull elephant appeared almost next to us in the glow of the blazing fire! Apparently the camp is built very close to a path on the other side of the waterhole, up the vlei, which is regularly used by a big herd of elies but also there is another path which joins it virtually through the middle of camp.

Roy had to do a POP POP noise to deter the pachyderm from coming any closer.

It was a memorable sight watching the herd of elephants passing in single file on their  regular evening ‘stroll’ within about 200 yards of where we were standing.

We had a very relaxed elephant munching on shrubs about 20 yards away in the darkness … one of the askaris was standing ‘guard’ (just in case).  It was wonderful to feel we had our space and the tusker had his and as long as nobody stepped over the boundary, all was well.

The stars were amazing in the sky – so very clear with the Southern Cross and ‘pointers’ clearly visible.

Back to our tent … with armed escort! … about 22h30.

 

Day 6

Up 06h45 to a beautiful morning.  Delicious breakfast then left camp for Ivory Lodge (only six hundred yards away but carefully hidden so that neither camp is aware of the other.  Had site visit with the manager, Janice.

Seven elevated thatched tree-house style room and 2 luxury suites.  All rooms are fitted with mosquito nets and all rooms are fairly open commanding great views of the water hole, offering guests a more intimate safari experience.

The tree house style rooms are very comfortable and it is very different to be raised high above the ground from the aspect of views (particularly to the waterhole). The decor is much more traditional style than Khulu Ivory.

There is a great feeling of permanence here at Ivory Lodge and not surprising as it was built over 30 years ago.  Another example of the older camps having best choice of locations .

The waterhole approached by a path which winds it way between some of the tree houses.  There is a hide where it is possible to sit and view the waterhole which is only metres away – probably best waterhole I have ever encountered.  Also possible to have dinner served in the hide which was in fact experienced by a honeymoon couple we met at the Lodge.  Incredible and unforgettable, they said.

Activities on offer include game drives, night and day, visits to the painted dog conservation, walking safaris (on request), Game Counts (on request)

This area is in the key home range of the Presidential Elephant herd made famous by Alan Elliot in the 1980.  The clan of semi-habituated elephants are known by our guides and certain family members can be called up to the vehicles if you are requesting a specific elephant experience.

We left Ivory Lodge and Janice drove us back into the park to Hwange Main Camp where we met Nkosi, the very pleasant and knowledgeable driver/guide from The Hide Safari Camp, in the Kennedy sector, where we were scheduled to stay that night.  Very scenic drive to The Hide which is well positioned within a north eastern annexe of Hwange National Park.

We stopped at one of Hwange’s many renowned waterholes for a picnic lunch, and were able to watch a myriad of species come for a drink including a dazzle! of zebra, wildebeeste, giraffe, impala, baboons as well as a lazy crocodile who remained frozen in position with open mouth as we enjoyed our lunch.

Arrived at The Hide after 1.5 hour journey from Main Gate.  Warmly welcomed by Kate and Lynette and manager Ian.  Given safety briefing and signed indemnity.

Independent and owner run, the Hide benefits from both a popular waterhole and high game densities in the area.  The camp is adjacent to the Victoria Falls-Bulawayo railway line and one does hear the train quite regularly which seems out of keeping with staying at a safari camp but doesn’t seem to deter the animals in any way.

The all inclusive basis camp of 20 tents is one of the oldest in the area but consistently voted Best Tented Camp in Zimbabwe for 13 years!  Recently been renovated and I can honestly say the main areas, walkways to tents, tents themselves are gorgeous.  Best described as a luxury tented camp, traditional yet contemporary.  All tents have lovely verandahs looking over to waterhole.  Wifi free for 15 minutes.

Night drives possible on The Hide’s own concession.  The waterhole at The Hide is particularly special, being the only source of permanent water for a good-sized area hence always plenty of animals to see including elephants either in twos or threes or sizeable herds!

Afternoon tea and met all the other guests – seems like a full camp, with a mixture of expats from Harare, Australians and Americans.

Off on game drive with Nkosi, sundowners on ilala palm fringed open pan overlooking another waterhole.  Apart from two ostriches and three giraffe, no other game about.  Very quiet on the game generally but heard and saw several trains in the distance including one train with 23 open topped goods vans full of coal from Hwange area mines.  Spotted vultures and Nkosi said an elephant had been killed on the line by a train so vultures always quick to spot a ‘kill’.

Back to camp then assembled for supper with drinks round the camp fire (wearing jackets as it was a cold evening) then settled around the long table where the guests enjoyed a delicious supper.

… this is Africa but even in Africa there is a winter season!  Hot water bottles had been carefully placed in our beds when we got back to the tent (no.3).

 

Day 7

Up 07h00, the usual coffee delivered to room which we took on the verandah in the morning sunlight.  Breakfast, then I had a site inspection with manager, Ian.  We walked along to the right of the mess area where Tom’s House, the two bedroomed family unit is located which interconnects with a smaller one bedroomed tent.  This is ideally used by a group or large family and they have own chef.  Lovely views over to the waterhole, closer than the standard tents.

Ian (with rifle) and I walked over to the waterhole and the hide. As Ian explained and I have never heard it put better…

Hides’ are very much part of safari tradition, although they have fallen by the wayside in many places, where it seems that frenetic activity is the order of the day. However, we think that hides are one of the best ways to get exceptionally close to animals. Essentially, the concept is to disguise a little safe room as a termite mound or other piece of the natural landscape and slip inside via the back door. Normally positioned at a waterhole, the hide allows you to sit quietly and observe without being observed. Needless to say, the photographic opportunities at this range are unequalled.  Of course, there is always the risk that you may miss dinner for the herds of elephant that surround you but it is worth it!’

I somehow slithered into the hide which was quite small but big enough to three people maximum.  Can well understand that one could be within touching distance of an elephant’s foot when the pachyderms come to drink!

As we walked back to camp, we spotted a line of antelope coming to drink – probably they had been waiting until we got out of the way before approaching the waterhole.

Bade farewell to this lovely place and headed back to Hwange Main, passing male lion and groups of elies on and near the road. Also a big group of kudu just before Main Camp.

Nkosi made sure our transfer vehicle organised by Drive the Wild and driven by Elliott was waiting to take us ‘down the road’ on the 258 kilometre journey to Bulawayo.

So at 10h00, we waved goodbye to Hwange National Park.  Took us 20 minutes to get back to the main Victoria Falls to Bulawayo road, the A8, where we turned right to Bulawayo.  The distance is 258 kilometres (turn left and Victoria Falls is 172 kilometres) which Elliott estimated would take us about 3 hours, taking into account anticipated road blocks along the way.

The road was good, tarred all the way, and yes there were road blocks.  About 6 altogether where we stopped, questioned, and as far as I could see no bribes were required to enable us to carry on our way.  Apparently the latest ‘scam’ with the traffic police is to charge if a radio is playing in the vehicle and to claim a license is required for this and so charge the driver about USD$50!!

Pleasant scenery with trees very much in evidence, even drove through a forest at one point!  Terrain started fairly flat after we left Hwange but hillier landscape as we headed south towards Matabeleland.  (Bulawayo stands at 1358 metres above sea level).

I had held a great interest in Bulawayo and the Matobo Hills for over twenty years and so felt very excited at last to be ‘on the way’ to this part of Zimbabwe which is often overlooked by tourists.

As we drove nearer to Bulawayo, I couldn’t quite believe that at last I was visiting one of my ‘big tick’ places.  For years I had read about Bulawayo whether in a Wilbur Smith novel,  in a guide book of Zimbabwe or in a history book about British colonisation of

this incredible land in the middle of the African continent.

Zimbabwe’s second city is unquestionably more interesting than Harare, the capital.  Harare uses western symbolism to make its mark whereas Bulawayo’s character comes from a history of going its own way and developing its own style.  Despite being the largest city after Harare, Bulawayo is reminiscent of a sleepy English town, with bungalows and neat gardens on the outskirts, and wide tree lined streets, leafy parks, Victorian buildings and a slow paced atmosphere.

Little demolition or hasty redevelopment has taken place and the wide, regularly gridded streets remain studded with gracious colonial-era buildings.  Overall, in fact, the city has something of a sepia-toned feel, compounded by rather conservative dress and aging cars – a slow laid back ambience that makes it a thoroughly pleasant place to stroll about and explore.

The city is home to the country’s main museum, the Natural History Museum, a Railway Museum, the Bulawayo Art Gallery housed in an attractive turn of the 20th century building, theatres, the Mzilikazi Art and Craft Centre and good hotels. 

Bulawayo means in Ndebele, ‘The Place of Slaughter’, a reference to the fierce succession battles that took place in the late 19th century.  These culminated in the accession of one of the key figures of pre-colonial Zimbabwean history, King Lobengula in 1870.  His reign peppered with heavy doses of heroism, lying, betrayal and death reads like grand opera: an era which came to a close in 1894 with Lobengula’s demise and Ndebele collapse before the relentless northwards advance of the British South Africa Company.

Arrived 13h15, Elliott got a parking ticket – very difficult parking and the traffic wardens are very sharp eyed!  Sam from Big Cave Camp was waiting for us outside the Bulawayo Club in centre of town and we quickly changed vehicles and set off for the Matobo Hills National Park which is 34 kilometres south of Bulawayo.

Almost immediately upon leaving Bulawayo we started seeing granite outcrops (kopjes)

which increased in number and size until we reached the main gate of this 434,000 hectare park, we were surrounded by this dramatic and enveloping scenery which was quite extraordinary.  The Matobo Hills National Park is located in the magnificent 80 kilometre long Matobo Hills, a 200 million year old range of domes, spires and balancing rock formations hewn out of a solid granite plateau through years of erosion.  The hills cover an area of 3100 square kilometres of which 424 square kilometres comprise the national park, the remainder being largely communal land and a small area for commercial farming.  The park was established in 1953 and in 2003 the Matobo Hills were proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site for having one of the largest concentrations of rock art in southern Africa.  The rugged terrain is interspersed with wooded valleys and the diverse vegetation supports a wide range of wildlife, including a large population of black and white rhino that are successfully breeding here.

Matobo was named by the first Ndebele king, Mzilikazi, and refers to the balancing rocks, which he compared to an assembly of elders from his tribe – amaTobo means ‘bald heads’.  On his death in 1868, Mzilikazi was buried in the Matobo Hills just outside the park.  The Matobo area has great spiritual and cultural significance for the local people and there are many sites where important ceremonies still take place.

We turned off the main road through an entrance gate into the Matobo Hills and drove several kilometres gradually climbing upwards passing amazing kopjes including the most famous of them all, the Mother and Child.  Eventually reached the stunning approach to Big Cave Camp over enormous slabs of granite rock. Warmly welcomed by the manager, pink and blue haired Gillian, from Liverpool!

Big Cave Camp in the Matobo Hills has seven granite and thatch ensuite A frame chalets with wonderful views over the valley to the hills beyond.   Chalet locations are stunning and went straight on to the balcony to see the panoramic views and watched dassies playing on the rocks.

Back to the Leopards Lair which is the lounge, bar and diningroom with impressive walls of giant boulders, atmospherically lit by lanterns at night.  Had a quick but tasty lunch before we headed out again for Sam and drove a short distance to the official park gate, with craft stalls strategically placed by the car park!  A quick look at wooden carvings before heading off into the park with our armed ranger/tracker, Benson, who was going to find some rhino for us!!

Met Sam at 3pm and drove off towards the official Park gate, about 20 minutes away.  Craft stalls strategically placed by the car park and we had a quick look at wooden carvings while Sam paid the park fees ($15 per person plus $5 for Tapson, our armed ranger/tracker, Tapson, a young, tall, handsome, slim, Matabele with a lovely smile who said he was ‘going to find some rhino for us .. in God we Trust’!!

Gazing in awe and amazement at the views of the hills.  Trees, vegetation, miombo woodland.  We were tracking rhino, both black and white but especially white as the black rhino are more aggressive. Tapson walked ahead of the vehicle checking for spoor on the sandy road track and eventually we found two white rhino which were tagged (like many of the rhino in the National Park).  Eyesight very poor but hearing excellent so they knew we were there but very relaxed. Keeping downwind, Tapson took us on foot within 20 yards so good photos were taken probably the best were of Tapson who seemed to get himself in every frame!  He kept making a ‘whooing’ call which was supposed to keep the animals calm… the combination of Tapson together with the two rhinos made a very entertaining scenario!!

Walked through the bush with Sam pointing out  plants and trees and their background.  There are over 200 species of trees including mountain acacia, wild pear and the paperback tree, aloes, wild herbs and grass species. As well as a sizeable population of rhino, the park is home to zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, kudu, eland, sable, hyena, warthog, waterbuck, crocodiles and baboons.

Although fairly elusive, there is an exceptionally high population of leopard thanks to the abundance of rock hyrax (or dassies), a small rodent and nearest relation to the elephant!)

No elephant or rhino in the park.

Birdlife is rich with the park famous for large population of black eagles which can be seen

perched on or soaring off the rock formations and cliffs.  Other species are fish eagle, martial eagle, francolin, secretary bird, weavers, pied crow and Egyptian geese.

Back on the vehicle and drove to the Maleme Dam where we had ‘sundowners’ discussing the wildlife around the Dam including the hippo population.  Stood on the sandy beach by waters edge.

Back to the Park gate and dropped Tapson who had given us an excellent ‘rhino’ experience.  Also revisted the craft stalls who were still there waiting for our return and they were duly rewarded with some sales especially in the carved rhino department.

Back to camp and after freshening enjoyed an excellent supper in the Leopards Lair with a young black Zimbabwean couple, called Amandale and Tobi, who had emigrated to Australia, qualified as doctors, and now returned for a visit to their family in Bulawayo.  We were also joined by Roy, the assistant manager and guide who would be managing Big Cave while Gill was on leave in UK.  A very good evening with more scrumptious food including one of the best apple crumbles I have ever tasted!  Sat round camp fire on the rocks after supper.

 

Day 8 (Matopos to Bulawayo)

0615 wake up call and at 0645, met Roy who took us up to Baboon Rocks, which was quite a scramble to the top! Marvelous views all around even as far as Worlds View (where we would be going later in the morning).  We descended down from the high rocks and Roy took us through the forest path to an overhanging area of rocks where there were some San Bushman paintings.  Only about 5 minutes from the camp so easily reached by guests wanting to spend longer at this fascinating site.

Bush man cave paintings from Nswatugi Cave

Back to camp for breakfast, then off with Sam to for some more highlights of our visit to the Matobo Hills.  The park is well known for more than 3,000 exceptionally fine rock paintings and there are numerous sites that were once occupied by the San (Bushman) hunter gatherers.  The main periods of painting were between AD320 and 500; some of the caves and crevices, clay ovens, knife-like tools and crude scrapers have been found.  Our first stop was Nswatugi Cave, where some of the finest paintings in the country are found and include beautiful reditions of giraffe, eland and kudu..

There are other caves with fine paintings in the park and all are easily accessible and each has a unique setting in this granite wilderness.

A small payment is made for visiting these exceptional sites.

We continued on towards Worlds View and the burial site of CECIL JOHN RHODES, perhaps the greatest African imperialist and founder of the state of Rhodesia.  A financier, statesman and empire builder, he had an ambitious dream to paint the map red for Britain with his Cape to Cairo railroad.  Rhodes was born in Bishop’s Stortford, Hertfordshire in 1853 and was a sickly child.  He was sent in 1870 to Natal to stay on his brothers cotton farm.

He soon became involved in the rush to exploit South Africa’s newly discovered diamond deposits and set up fruitful claims in Kimberley, which went on to become the richest diamond pipe in the world.  Rhodes bought up more claims and by 1888 he owned all the small scale mining operations at Kimberley and consolidated them under the banner of the De Beers Mining Company.  By this time he was today’s equivalent of a billionaire; by 1891, his company owned 90% of the world’s diamond mines.

Rhodes became involved in politics as is often the case with hugely successful business men always pushing British interests in Southern Africa.  In 1890, he became Prime Minister of Cape Colony.  Despite his economic success with diamonds, he missed out on making a fortune when gold was discovered on the Witwatersrand in South Africa.  Frustrated by this, he began to look towards lands north of the Limpopo river where local people were involved in small-scale mining for gold.

In 1888 Rhodes sent his Kimberley business partner, Charles Rudd, across the Limpopo to secure mining rights with Lobengula, the head of the Ndebele people (and son of Mzilikazi).  Lobengula granted  mining rights in part of the territory in exchange for 1000 rifles, an armed steamship for use on the Zambezi and a monthly rent of £100!

The Matobo Hills made a profound impression on these two men of absolute power, Lobengula and Cecil J Rhodes, whose destinies drew them into a final showdown in the last decade of the nineteenth century.  The Matobo Hills became the stronghold of Lobengula’s indunas and impis in the battle against Rhodes colonizing “pioneers”. The “grain bins” still exist in hidden places where the Ndebele warriors used to store their grain, together with clay ovens, known locally as “iron smelters”, which the warriors used to manufacture their infamous assegais in 1896. Good examples of grain bins can be seen on the private wilderness, together with pottery almost a century old.

Rhodes sent the first party of colonists across the Limpopo in 1890; they settled on a site which later became the town of Salisbury (now the capital city of Harare) and started prospecting for gold.  In support of Rhodes’ scheme, the government declared the area a British protectorate in 1891.  Rhodes received a charter from Queen Victoria authorizing the British South Africa Company to develop new territory, and as the charter had no northern limit, Rhodes annexed Nyasaland (now Malawi) and Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia).

Meanwhile, Rhodes’ railway from South Africa’s Cape reached Bulawayo in 1896, though he failed to achieve his dream of connecting the Cape with Cairo.  The railway reached Victoria Falls in 1904, after Rhodes’ death and while the Victoria Falls Bridge was completed in 1905 the line wasn’t extended north through Zambia and on to Tanzania until 1976.

Rhodes’ dream of finding great gold reserves in the new territories proved illusory and he failed to find another ‘Witwatersrand’.

He turned his attention back to his investments in the Transvaal but his annoyance with President Kruger’s constraints on non-Boer residents led him to make his greatest political mistake by backing the ill-fated Jameson Raid in 1895.

This failed attempt to overthrow Kruger’s government led to a serious breach in relations between Rhodes and Afrikaners in the Cape and he was forced to resign as Prime Minister.

He took a less public role in the Charter Company of Rhodesia and spent the Anglo-Boer War in Kimberley including the Siege of Kimberley (15 October 1899-16 February 1900).

Cecil John Rhodes died of a heart attack in 1902 at his cottage in Muizenberg, Cape Town, only 49 years of age.  He bequeathed most of his wealth to Oxford University with nearly £3million used in the creation of the famous Rhodes Scholarships.  Rhodes decreed in his will that he was to be buried at World’s View in the Matobo Hills.  He had chosen the grandiose spot when riding in the hills six years earlier.  When he died in Cape Town his body was taken by train to Bulawayo (presumably on ice!).

Nearly two weeks later, the cortege of coaches, carriages, carts, horses, bicycles and pedestrians left Bulawayo for Rhodes’ hut on his Matopos (as the hills were formerly known in colonial times) farm, stopping overnight before reaching the top. His burial was attended by Ndebele chiefs who gave Rhodes the salute of kings… ‘Bayete’.   They also asked that the firing party should not discharge their rifles as this would disturb the spirits.

I have given a potted history of Cecil J Rhodes because I think he influenced so much of Zimbabwe’s past (and South Africa’s as well).  Many books have been written about this formidable man who played such a big part in Southern Africa’s history.

The grave of Cecil Rhodes

And so, back to our visit to Rhodes burial site on 1st May 2013!  We arrived at the car park and information centre and walked up (about 10 minutes) to the summit hill called Malindizimu (Ndebele for ‘hill of the benevolent spirit’) also known as World’s view after Rhodes’ own reference to it.  My whole visit to the Matobo Hills area was a dream come true and this now was the pinnacle when I walked over the final vast slab of smooth, lichen covered granite rock to Rhodes’ World View and his final resting place.  The tomb is carved out of solid granite and is surrounded by a natural amphitheatre of massive boulders.  His right hand man and leder of the ill fated Jameson Raid, Leander Starr Jameson who died in 1917 is buried slightly lower down the granite rock.  The first Prime Minister of Rhodesia, Charles Coghlan, who died in 1930 is also buried a short distance away.

Contrasting with this quiet resting place and erected at Rhodes request on the same hilltop, the huge and impressive Allan Wilson Memorial which commemorates the  Shangani Patrol.  After Bulawayo fell to the British South Africa Company in 1893, Wilson was part of a hot pursuit team running to ground the fleeing Lobengula.  His patrol went ahead of the main column but, just as they were approaching the king, the Shangani River flooded separating them from reinforcements.  On December 4th, the entire party of 34 men was wiped out by the Ndebele.

The men were first buried where they fell then transferred to Great Zimbabwe and finally brought to the Memorial in 1904.  The square memorial in gleaming white stone which penetrates the skyline for miles, has heroic reliefs that wrap around the plinth and depict the members of the party.

I walked back up to World’s View for one last look at Rhodes resting place and the magnificent views in each direction (even over to Big Cave Camp) before making my way down the hill to the car park.

The whole visit was very emotional to me as I had read a great deal over the years about the history of Zimbabwe.  It makes a great difference to a visit when one knows the background.

Drove back to Big Cave Camp and quickly packed.  Farewell to Gillian, Roy and their staff- this is a lovely place where we could easily have spent another day/night.  In fact, I would advise clients if they have the time and the interest level to spend three nights in the Matobo Hills. Perfect to have a day in camp enjoying the views, wandering around amongst the kopjes and even enjoying a dip in the swimming pool which is let into the rock slab.

Back into the Land Rover for our drive with Sam into Bulawayo via Amalinda Camp another highly recommended place to stay in the Matobo Hills area.  Lovely camp and location with fabulous infiniti pool.  More chic than Big Cave and would appeal to the trendy types.  The rooms are stunning, built into the rocks which I personally found quite enclosed and oppressive.  Amalinda Camp is generally considered to be most upmarket option in the Matobo.

Arrived Bulawayo Club at 1600 and said goodbye to Sam who has been an excellent guide showing us in just 24 hours how much there is to enjoy in the Matobo Hills.

The Bulawayo Club is an imposing white colonial club with a red tiled roof, wide verandahs and teak panelled rooms, built in 1895 and fully restored in 2009.  Features include high ceilings, chandeliers, sweeping staircases, heavy drapes and old prints/paintings.  It still functions as a Club and members use the fine restaurant, bar and billiards room.  Second floor rooms very comfortable with traditional furnishings and flat screen televisions and the very useful wifi connection.  I think the first floor rooms are kept for Club members.

We were close to the club lounge where we enjoyed complimentary tea and coffee.

Loved the atmosphere in the Club and found the fascinating Club room with old photos and memorabilia from days gone by.

The long Bar on the ground floor has only just allowed women to order drinks from the bar and it is great to see places like this which makes a great change from modern hotel bars which all look the same.  I really admire the Bulawayo Club for keeping everything as it was and not ‘modernising’ to any extent except the essentials like plumbing/TV/wifi and room furnishings without taking away the atmosphere which is so important to keep.

We had supper in the restaurant which was excellent – like being in a Palm Court… in fact, I think that is what the restaurant was called and very aptly too.  Rates are bed and breakfast.

 

Day 9 (Great Zimbabwe)

Up 0445 and met Paul Hubbard in lobby at 0530.  Paul was waiting to take us to Great Zimbabwe, another of my iconic places to see in Zimbabwe.  Still dark outside, we set off in his 4 x 4 vehicle through the quiet streets of Bulawayo.  We had a long journey of 3 hours plus travelling east towards Masvingo.

This was the most expensive day tour I had ever taken (over $500 per person) and I hoped it would be worth the expense but as Great Zimbabwe was a ‘must see’ for me, there was no hesitation about the cost… and Gwen said Paul was the best! And I was to find out why during this incredible day.

We drove out of Bulawayo on the A9 tarred road.  Gradually the sun rose and as only happens in Africa, the day dawned bright, fresh and clear.  We pulled in to a layby at about 0730 and Paul produced delicious coffee from a flask and home made biscuits.

We continued on through Mbalala, Filabusi, Zvishavane, Mashana and Masvingo, originally Fort Victoria which was the first white settlement in the country named after Queen Victoria.  The scenery was very attractive all the way (apart from the asbestos works near Zvishavane!)

Turned south at Masvingo and drove 28 kilometres south to Great Zimbabwe, arriving about 0845.

‘Wow’ hardly does it justice! Even though I had a good idea of the layout, it still came as a big surprise to see the sheer scale of these ‘Large Houses of Stone’, set in a lush and flourishing valley at the head of the Mutirikwi river.

The city is spread over 722 hectares and construction started in the 11th Century and continued over 300 years making the ruins at Great Zimbabwe some of the oldest and largest structures in Southern Africa.

Great Zimbabwe reached its peak of power in the 13th and 14th centuries when its empire extended over 100,000 square kilometers.  It is likely that this society was based on the principle of sacred kingship and it is thought that the urban spaces and layout reflected this social system.  The city derived its wealth from crops, cattle, and trade in ivory and gold and the stone walls were built to show off the wealth of the elite that lived behind them.  Those who lived behind these walls enjoyed a comparatively luxurious lifestyle and ruled the society through their monopoly over the judicial, political, religious and trade.

Watch Lily’s video of Lake  Great Zimbabwe by clicking here.

Great Zimbabwe is a UNESCO World Heritage site, recognizing the amazing effort and skill that went into cutting the stone and assembling it in what are mostly geometrical forms, using only simple tools and technology.

The Great enclosure at Great Zimbabwe.

Great Zimbabwe was not built to be hidden or for defence.  It was a loud declaration of power and wealth by the rulers of the first state in this part of Africa.

Many 19th century archeologists found it difficult to admit that Africans had the know-how to build such an intricate set of structures.  White explorers and archaeologists continued to believe and promote this theory even though there was no evidence of whites building or living at the complex.  Artefacts that were found, such as bronze and copper spearheads, axes and tools for working with gold all pointed to the Shona people.

But in their attempt to exploit the African land and stamp their colonial seal on the territory, the colonials didn’t want anyone to believe that Africans were capable of building such a complex social system.

Once myths take hold however, they are very difficult to eradicate and the falsification of Great Zimbabwe continued with visitors being led to believe that Great Zimbabwe was built by Europeans.  To black anti-colonialist groups, the stone city became an important achievement of black Africans and reclaiming their history was an important aim of those seeking independence.

In 1980 the newly independent country was renamed after the site and its ***famous soapstone bird carvings became a national symbol, depicted in the country’s flag.

First of all, we parked under a big shady tree by the official car park then walked over to the museum and Paul sorted out the entry charge (about $10 per person).

To give more background to Great Zimbabwe before we set off to explore!

It is estimated at its peak, Great Zimbabwe had as many as 25,000 Shona inhabitants.  The ruins can be broken down into three distinct architectural groups: the Hill Enclosure,    the Valley Complex and the Great Enclosure.

The Hill Complex is situated on a steep sided hill and was originally a royal palace;

the Valley Complex was used by the citizens and the Great Enclosure was for the King.

The Great Enclosure is the most formidable structure, with 11 metre high walls.

The sun was shining hotly as set off across the open ground towards the Hill Complex

and I now understood why Paul wanted such an early start from Bulawayo to try and avoid the main heat of the day whilst navigating the steep climb to the Hill Complex.  We took the same route that residents, and visitors would have taken all those years ago and it was an ideal orientation for us to get the feel of Great Zimbabwe.  This oldest inhabituated part of the city was for some time known as the ‘acropolis’, a kind of Hellenic compulsion having gripped early observers.

Tumbling ruins at Great Zimbabwe

The steep ascent prohibits a lot of visitors with its various stepped routes and narrow chlostrophibic passageways which work their way round enormous balancing boulders (originally so that guards could keep check on visitors and search them for weapons).***see more background to the soapstone birds in later paragraphs.

The final approach is very narrow and daunting, where guards could check on who was coming and going into the enclosure.  With relief we climbed out into the main area and it was amazing to see how the level had risen over the 400 years of occupancy showing the building on top of the original structures.  The earliest settlement would have been daga and pole huts, and the growing wealth of the later state made the building of stone walls possible.  The Hill Complex was originally a royal palace and it seems likely that it later became the seat of a Rozvi spirit medium- the religious counter part to the secular king’s court, some 80 metres below in the Great Enclosure.

Paul showed us all aspects of the Complex and the views to the Great Enclosure and the Valley Complex almost 300 feet below were stunning – in fact, Paul had cleverly distracted us from seeing the Great Enclosure until we viewed it from the Hill thus showing us how the City of Stone was so cleverly planned.

We spent over two hours on the Hill exploring the different areas and listening to Paul’s expert and passionate knowledge and explainations of the why’s and wherefore’s.  He showed us an overhanging rock for instance where, if news or messages were required to be sent to the Great Enclosure in the valley below, then the appropriate person would shout the message which would travel by echo … we experienced this later when in the Great Enclosure listening to modern day messengers experimenting with the early form of ‘telephone’!

We marveled at the balancing rocks and of course the very special area in the Eastern Enclosure of the Hill Complex where the birds were found!  Was very excited to hear about this as the soapstone birds of Zimbabwe had long fascinated me.  This area is assumed to be a ritual or religious centre.  Paul showed us where the soapstone birds had once stood.

Let me give some background to the Zimbabwe birds.

Over one hundred years ago, the German explorer, Karl Mauch was shown the ruins of Great Zimbabwe and his report of this enigmatic stone built city fired the imagination of romantics and aspiring colonists across the world.  His assertion that the ruins were the home of the Queen of Sheba and King Solomon was seized upon by many as proof that an ancient civilization of non-African origin once existed in the interior and manipulated by others to argue that the time was right to re-establish this civilization.  The Zimbabwe birds, which Mauch never saw, became a central part of this argument and have long played a role in the tussle over the interpretation of the origins and development of the Zimbabwe culture as well as the modern nation state of Zimbabwe.

The first white man known to have seen a Zimbabwe bird and immediately remove it was the hunter and explorer, Willie Posselt who, excited by the rumours of a lost city, organized a trading-hunting-exploring trip to the interior.  He reached the ruins on 14th August 1889 finally climbing the hill on 15th August 1889…’in an enclosure, I saw four soapstones, each carved in the image of a bird and facing towards the east.  Each one, including its plinth, had been hewn out of a solid block of stone and measured four feet six inches in height, and each was firmly set into the ground’. Posselt negotiated the purchase of one of the birds for a few blankets and other trade articles from the site’s custodian, Chief Mugabe.

He buried the other birds and took his purchased bird back to South Africa where he sold it to Cecil RhodesTo this day, this bird remains in Rhodes’ Groote Schuur mansion, Cape Town.  Rhodes was obsessed with the bird and used it to great effect when convincing sceptical investors that there was more to the northern territory than met the eye.  He instructed the experienced antiquarian Theodore Bent to lead a structured historical expedition back to Great Zimbabwe to find the other birds.  Bent found the four more birds and a fragment of another and he took these back to Cape Town and the South African Museum (returned to Zimbabwe in 1981).

There was much local objection to the excavation of the sacred site and the ‘stealing’ of the birds but also the local people were offended by the opening of graves which were sacred in most African societies.

The incredibly destructive excavations made later by Richard Hall, the first curator of Great Zimbabwe, brought to light a further two birds (one complete and one fragmented) from the area to the left of the Great Enclosure.

The complete bird was found buried upside down, which is probably how it was missed by previous investigators.  It shows evidence of more artistic workmanship than that of previously discovered birds and eventually became the national symbol of Zimbabwe.

Both the Rhodesian and Zimbabwean governments have used the Zimbabwe bird as well as other images of Great Zimbabwe in a variety of ways to bolster their seemingly separate claims to legitimacy, create a national identity  and assert their version of the past.

The birds are all carved from soapstone (talc or mica-schist), a material not uncommon in the area and were once perched atop pedestals, many of which were intricately carved.  The birds represent birds of prey but it is not possible to identify the species because the carvings combine human and avian elements; beaks with lip on some, and four or five toes or fingers on all, reminiscent of a mythological style.

We made our way down the hill by the servants route.  Wonderful views over to Lake Mutirikwe which was at low level due to lack of rain.  Walked over to the Museum and in the basement we viewed the birds, seven in all.  I found the time spent with the birds quite spiritual looking at their inscrutable faces!

We walked over to the car park and enjoyed our well earned picnic lunch under the shady trees.

Feeling refreshed, we walked over to the Great Enclosure, the pinnacle of Rozvi architecture which sits a short distance from the foot of the Hill Complex.  Originally a royal palace and a powerful symbol of the community, it provided privacy to the state’s rulers with its 11 metre high walls; at the peak of their power, the enclosure is thought to have housed the king, his mother and his senior wives.

We went in through a narrow entrance but with no door – in fact there are no doors in any of the entrances.  The problem with finishing off a wall without an abrupt and jarring halt is brilliantly resolved by curving the wall back in on itself.  Around and about usually at the entrances and particularly on the wall facing the cliff ascent of the Hill Complex there are stone pillars.

It is likely they were topped by symbolic totems which told which family lived inside (like a street address).  The Zimbabwe birds were probably the totem of the royal family.

Although the walls are monumental in scale, the architectural ‘language’ used is an adaptation of traditional Shona domestic themes; the circular pole and daga hut just as it is today.

The Great Enclosure has entered the record books as sub Saharan Africa’s greatest stone monument.  It is also Zimbabwe’s most photographed building: the massive tower and narrow, snaking parallel passage instantly recognizable from publicity pictures.

Whatever the conical tower signified to its builders, it provided ample scope for the imaginations of those who followed.  Clearly, it can be seen as a phallic symbol and that the stairs present femininity and the chevron patterns on some of the walls, fertility.  Every theory has been considered including grain store and prototype safe, the romantics were certain it contained hidden treasure, until archaeologists delved beneath in the 1920’s and found… nothing!  It is in fact solid all the way up.

The whole experience of being inside the Great Enclosure was unforgettable and a new site was found turning each corner.  Once inside it was easy to see how the occupants kept their business private from the those living outside walls.  Leading out of the tower enclosure, a parallel passage stretches 70 metres to the north entrance.  It gives a good idea of the value of privacy to the Rozvi rulers, screening their domestic arrangements from even the privileged few invited inside.  Walking to the tower enclosure or even central area,  and still not see where the main huts were.

It is also noticeable how the Rozvi masons skills improved as they gained experience – the inner wall was built at least a century earlier than the smoother, more accurately laid, outer leaf.  These mortarless wall faces, standing several times human height are magnificent; this society had no wheels and no writing.

We stepped outside the walls into the sunlight once more and made our way amongst the palm and aloe trees which stood like sentries amongst this incredible stone city.  We walked over to where the ‘upside down’ bird had been found by Richard Hall in 1905.

Back to our vehicle and loaded up by 1500 for the long journey back to Bulawayo.  Back to the main road and stopped by the roadside where there was an extensive line of craft stalls selling everything from soapstone birds, magnets of Great Zimbabwe’s conical tower, colourful katengis to wooden hippos, long necked giraffes and soapstone jewellry… and everything else in between!!  I bought a soapstone falcon headed bird and three hornbills and Jean bought an enormous, handsome hippo with my encouragement… although we didn’t know where it could possibly go in the suitcase!!

Very interesting talk with Paul about Zimbabwe most of the way back to ‘town’.  Paul told us how his family had lost their farm but he had sold the cattle for Zimbabwe dollars and immediately bought other things so managed to make the best of it… somehow.  He looks on his experience as hard at times but eventually he now has a better life.

When I told him that Gwen had described him as one of the top historical guides in Zimbabwe, he modestly said that he had studied very hard to get where he is today (and only in his early 30’s).  If he and parents ever managed to get the farm back, he wouldn’t have cattle but go for game farming instead.

Paul said it was essential for businesses to keep open as once they closed, they never opened again.  As the years went by, it became increasingly difficult getting supplies e.g. milk and flour, fuel and other basics particularly by 2008.

He is very busy with guiding excursions from Amalinda (in the Matobo) and also private work.  Latest new project is helping the ‘Chief of Education for the National Parks’ with training the guides at sites.

Paul told us how in February 2009 there was a tremendous change in the country when the USD became the official currency as the Zimbabwe dollar had become so unstable… trillions of dollars = 50 cents for instance!  It would start being so much in the morning then by evening had devalued by half.

Very confusing at first with understanding how much the USD was worth as people didn’t know what to charge for a service e.g. boiler needed servicing and the plumber charged him USD30.. now of course everyone is used to the currency and prices are in realistically in line with reality!

It was 1900 when we arrived back in Bulawayo and we said ‘goodbye’ to Paul at the Bulawayo Club.  What a day he had given us bringing Great Zimbabwe and its history to life.  He has a very special talent and a wealth of knowledge and I would very much recommend him to future clients … worth every dollar (US not Zim!)

Quick freshen up then a welcome supper in the Palm Court restaurant where we talked about our Great Zimbabwe day.

 

Day 10 (Bulawayo to Victoria Falls)

Tasty breakfast and afterwards I met Rob, the Manager of the Bulawayo Club.  Our driver, Joseph, arrived at 0830 and he kindly found a local shop which was open pre 0900 to buy a hat (having lost mine in Hwange).   Drove out of Bulawayo on the familiar R9 road back north to Victoria Falls, a journey of 424 kilometres.  We stopped at Halfway House Hotel which as you would expect is located about halfway between Bulawayo and Victoria Falls.  Remarked on the huge China/Africa Sunlight Energy company which we noticed along the way.  Big clay mine in the area hence the reason why we saw two big stalls selling clay pots on the roadside… just like a garden centre in UK.

Drove past the Hwange National Park sign as we headed further on the R9 towards Victoria Falls, took a right turn to Elephant Camp as the road sloped downhill towards the Falls about 20 minutes out of town.  Rough track to the Camp, arriving 1330 and warmly welcomed on arrival by Jonathan, the General Manager and Bernie, his assistant.

Shown to our tent which was gorgeous décor and very spacious with outside decking and plunge pool.  Views to the distant spray of the Falls.  Quick turnaround and headed back to the mess area where lunch awaited us.  The camp has twelve tents and looked as though all full according to the busy lunch setting.  Staff very pleasant indeed.

Food scrumptious and in  designer fashion style.  Elephant Camp is No. 1 on Tripadvisor even though not close to the falls.  Very trendy, chic place on fully inclusive basis (re food,drinks)

Guests seem to be mainly Swiss, French and US.

Relaxing afternoon (for a change), and I braved the plunge pool for a dip (freezing)!

Wifi available in mess lounge area so caught up in the evening with latest news ‘from the outside’.

Pre dinner drinks followed by tasting style supper ie. small portions of 2 soups then 3 mains including chicken, beef and pork.  Ate on the outside decking which looked very pretty in the candlelight with moon shining on the swimming pool below.  Paths to tents lit by lamps.

Comfortable sleep with Jean preparing to be up early for her Elephant Back Safari departing at 0645 so early call at 0600.  I had done this in 2001 and so missed out on the 2013 version.  (cost USD140)

 

Day 11

Up at the leisurely time of 0800 and I made my way along to the mess area in time to see Sylvester, a magnificent cheetah on a lead who was parading around the decking in front of the lounge.  A sight to behold and he seemed very relaxed even when the guests knelt very close to him when he was lying on the ground.  I noticed his  mood was being monitored very carefully by his ‘handler’.  Eventually after about 15 minutes of this attention, Sylvester had had enough and he got up and walked away from the human attention – loaded into the back of a pick up truck by his handler.

Good camp shop with reasonable prices.

Jean arrived back from the Elephant Ride and we enjoyed breakfast in the sunshine while she recounted her morning adventure on safari atop a very relaxed elephant.

At 12 noon, sadly bade farewell to Elephant Camp after our very short stay – a lovely place much enjoyed by all the guests and a great atmosphere.

 

IMPRESSIONS OF ZIMBABWE

Positive feeling and attitude of everyone we met whether in the tourism industry or the general public, particularly Gwen and Victoria from Safaris4Africa; management from Meikles Hotel, Harare; Simon from Changa Camp, Dave Parsons from Camp Hwange, Cedric Wilde from Khulu Ivory; Ian, Manager of the Hide;   Gillian from Big Cave Camp; Paul Hubbard, historian and guide from Bulawayo; Julio, manager of Victoria Falls Hotel;

Incredibly, I never heard any person echo bitterness (even Cedric who’d been thrown in jail- it just made him more determined ‘not be beaten down’)

LOOKING AHEAD TO THE FUTURE and realizing Zimbabwe is in a better place than it was 5 years ago.

Generally held that Zimbabwe has best guides and guide training in Africa.

Matusadona NP and Lake Kariba – land/boat safaris

Matobo Hills NP – San bushman paintings and Cecil Rhodes history

Great Zimbabwe – History; UNESCO World Heritage site; the stone city was a great symbol of achievement and the mysterious soapstone bird(s) incorporated in the national flag in 1980 upon independence.

Victoria Falls – iconic site and adventure capital of Africa

**Mana Pools National Park by the Zambezi (should have included it but didn’t… will go back another day… highly recommended by locals.

For many reasons, recent years have not been good for the country and people of Zimbabwe but the tourism industry has remained resilient and visitors are back in force to country.  The UK market once comprised 25% of overseas visitors but this is now only a trickle.  Other overseas markets like US, Australia, New Zealand, Europe, Far East are coming in droves (as we noticed).  Only met three other UK visitors on the whole of our 14 day visit… probably down to negative perception in the national media BUT not in the travel press which regularly features Zimbabwe’s myriad ‘must see’ areas of amazing and iconic interest.

April/May is a great time to visit – low season prices, temps pleasant, rain dried up usually,  October very hot, Rain Nov…. 

Zimbabwe and Botswana make a great combo being so easily accessed by vehicle at the Kazangula border.

BUT I do feel that there is so much variety to see in Zimbabwe that there is no need to visit Botswana.  …. I haven’t even mentioned the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabawe and Gonarezhou National Park, in the south eastern part of the country.

Don’t forget only twenty years ago, Zimbabwe was one of the most popular safari destinations in Africa….

And there was very good reason for this.

Let’s put our hearts into putting ZIM back where it belongs!

by Lily Appleby Newby

No related content found.

Guide to Victoria Falls: Best time to go, best places to visit and best things to do.

$
0
0

On a recent visit to Zimbabwe, I spent a couple of days at Victoria Falls, visiting the main hotels we use, exploring the sights and seeing what other activities there is on offer.

Day 1

We arrived 20 minutes later at the Victoria Falls Hotel, the Grand Old Lady built in 1905 with 160 rooms.  The first tourists to the Falls had to eat and sleep in the train at the station.  In 1905, just after the railway arrived, work began on the construction of a wood and corrugated iron hotel, close to the station.  That shack has come a long way, with the avenue of scented trees from the station creating merely a build-up to the hotel’s colonial legacy of architectural style and impeccable service.  The terrace opens onto views of the low green-grey hills of Zambia rising behind the filter of spray.  It’s all part of the careful setting – the site chosen for its view of the second gorge and the daring railway bridge.  The short walk from the hotel to the Falls was too much for the Edwardian tourists, so a trolley took them down to the Falls.  The tracks were pulled up some time ago but the remaining path is still a thoroughfare for today’s tourists.

From the moment we stepped into the marble floored reception area, the character and ambience of the hotel took us over and we were hooked! Met Julio, the manager, who gave me a whistle stop site inspection including the renovations of the stable wing rooms which usually given to our Real Africa clients.

The view from the terrace is spectacular over the manicured lawns to the Victoria Falls Bridge, the second gorge below Victoria Falls and the spray from the Victoria Falls rising about 300 feet in the air…. the best view from any hotel anywhere in the world (in my opinion, of course!).  Julio showed me the Stanley Bar which is being renovated and extended… sepia photos and paintings including the 1947 Royal Visit by King George, Queen Elizabeth and their daughters, the Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret.  The whole place reeks of elegance, permanence and solidity.

Julio said the hotel was full but only 60% of rooms were available owing to the closure of the stable wing due to renovations.  JuIio said there were many plans for updating the hotel but I said not to update too much, don’t spoil the character of the hotel which is what makes it different from other places.

Staff are very welcoming and friendly to every guest no matter how casually dressed!

We stayed in room 24 (part of the Suite of deluxe rooms where the Royal Family stayed in 1947 with interconnecting doors.

At 1400 we were collected by Joffret, Wilderness Safaris and transferred to Ilala Lodge (about 3 minutes from the Victoria Falls Hotel) for site visit given by Martin, the manager. This long established quality hotel on the edge of Victoria Falls National Park and within easy walking distance of the Falls and the Bridge, is an attractive whitewashed and thatched building with 34 spacious and elegant air conditioned rooms en suite with patios or balconies looking out into the bush where elephant and other wildlife are regularly seen.  Very attractive restaurant set above the bush where I remember years ago (2001) I sat and watched elephants browsing on the trees below. Beautiful pink bougainvillea around the bar and swimming pool.  The lodge is running at full capacity but the atmosphere was very relaxed and calm.  Reasonable rates based on bed and breakfast and a great place to stay in Victoria Falls to be on hand for all the activities but so close to the bush.

Had a delicious ham, cheese, tomato toasted sandwich courtesy of Martin (as he said I looked hungry!!) which was delicious, washed down with lime and soda which set us up for the rest of the afternoon.

I think this would be a good point to give some…

BACKGROUND AND HISTORY OF THE VICTORIA FALLS.

For a considerable distance above the Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River – the fourth longest river in Africa at around 3,540 kilometres and the largest flowing river into the Indian Ocean – flows over a level sheet of basalt rock in a shallow valley bounded by low and distant sandstone hills.  The river’s course is dotted with numerous tree-covered islands, which increase in number as the river approaches the falls.  There are no mountains, escarpments or deep valleys which might be expected to create a great waterfall and most visitors find it surprising to see only a plateau extending hundreds of kilometers in all directions.  However, the Victoria Falls are one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world.  They dip dramatically and furiously from the flat savannah into the Batoka Gorge over 100 metres below.  The scenic, tree lined gorge is the floodgate to the seasonal river.

The river then snakes its way along the gorge for about 120 kilometres towards Lake Kariba on the border of

Zimbabwe and Zambia.  Just below the Falls, the river carries a torrent of white water over a series of rapids.  

The first European to view these massive waterfalls was David Livingstone on 17th November 1855, during his 1852-1856 journey from the Upper Zambezi to the mouth of the river.  The falls were well known to local tribes who had named them Mosi-oa-Tunya ‘The Smoke that Thunders’.

Early Arab traders and Voortrekkers from the south had reported them but the Europeans were skeptical perhaps thinking that the lack of mountains and valleys on the plateau made a large waterfall unlikely.

Livingstone had been told about the Falls before reaching them from upriver and was paddled across to a small island near the lip of the Falls that now bears the name Livingstone Island.  The explorer was quite incredulous and wrote of the Falls ‘No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England.  This has never been seen before by European eyes: but scenes such as these must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight’.  He then named them in honour of Queen Victoria.

Livingstone’s stories about the Falls attracted many European adventurers and travelers and the town of Victoria Falls steadily expanded throughout the 20th century.

Livingstone’s discovery encouraged hunters, traders and missionaries, who were followed by prospectors for coat in Hwange in what is now northern Zimbabwe and for copper into northern Rhodesia (now Zambia) from about the 1890’s.

At 1530, collected by Beki and drove 20 minutes to the sundowner cruise jetty by the mighty Zambezi River, upstream from the Victoria Falls.  This was the upmarket Raikane cruise which Real Africa sells to the exclusion of the other sundowner cruise companies which are available.  Our cruise boat was very posh with red velvet seats, wooden tables, lots of polished wood panelling, about 12 seats in all.  Welcome drink of mango juice as we came aboard… the first passengers.  A group of German tourists came at 1600 and we left at 1610.  Safety briefing by Cap’n John.  There were about a dozen sundowner boats on the river (definitely in the booze cruise category.. lots of shouting and laughing.. and in fact our boat did become slightly less reserved the more liquid refreshment (i.e. wine, spirits as well as soft drinks) was consumed.  Plenty of snacks provided as well.  Captain gave us a running commentary as we passed points of interest.

The sun beat down hotly and glistened on the river… we sailed around various tree covered islands upstream from the Falls and saw hippos, crocodiles, birds and other wildlife.  We sailed very close to the islands and had an amazing experience with an elephant who was also having a happy time in the shallows amongst the reeds browsing on tasty reeds.  The Captain steadied the boat against the current so that we could all get photos and footage recording these special moments.

Gradually the sun went down and the darkening forest was backlit by the molten sky.  Absolutely stunning to watch… accompanied by the background of camera clicks!

Arrived back at the jetty by1810, met by Beki and drove back to the Victoria Falls Hotel.  Enjoyed our wonderful room (which also had wifi) then made our way to Stanley’s Bar (by Stanley’s terrace) for ‘I Presume’ cocktails which were very much appreciated at USD8 each.  Then went over to Jungle Junction with a more African feel and one of several restaurants to be found in the hotel.  Delicious buffet with wide range of options for USD35 per person so very good value.  Full restaurant with guests from all over the world.

Day 2

Breakfast in Jungle Junction at 0800.. morning sunlight shining on the warthogs which came over the lawn very close to the tables – obviously trained to entertain the guests at breakfast!

Met Beki from Wilderness Safaris once again who was going to take up on a morning tour of the Falls.  Drove to the entrance which was certainly much smarter since my last visit in 1994.  It is located on Livingstone Way just a few metres before the immigration offices at the border. Also got raincoats, thick plastic and hooded but also had my own raincoat on underneath.  Important also to have footwear with good tread – wore shorts not trousers as it’s a given fact that one gets invariably soaked to skin so why wear more than necessary.

The Falls were formed during the Jurassic period some 150-200 million years ago when lava erupted out of fissures in the earth and covered large parts of southern Africa.  These dark basalt deposits are up to 300 metres thick and formed the sides of the Batoka Gorge below the Falls.  As the lava cooled and solidified, cracks appeared in the basalt crust, mostly in an east-west direction, but these were joined by smaller north-south fissures.  Reputedly a lake formed over the area, and with time deposits of clay and lime filled the cracks in the basalt.  Then the Zambezi with its force of water cut through the soft clay and lime, and formed a series of waterfalls.

The Victoria Falls comprises five separate falls.  Four of these are in Zimbabwe (the Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls, Rainbow Falls and Horseshoe Falls) and one, the Eastern Cataract is in Zambia.

From the Park entrance, the first viewpoint is over Devil’s Cataract.  Turn left from here to the bronze statue of David Livingstone with the inscription at the base ‘Christianity, Commerce and Civilisation’.  To the right the path leads through the rainforest to the other viewpoints overlooking the Falls.  As we walked along the path we were getting wetter and wetter and the spray was so intense it wasn’t really possible to see very much at all.  One was overcome with water like being in the middle of a very heavy rainstorm but this was spray only.

We went to each viewpoint for Main, Horseshoe and Rainbow – no. 7 viewpoint provides best view of Main Falls (on a clearer day) and from the right hand corner of the viewing site, it is possible to see the river at the bottom of the gorge.  At the end of the walk is the dizzying Danger Point, the last part of the walk on the Zim side near the Vic Falls Bridge.  So called because the viewpoint juts out on the cliff edge — needless to say, I didn’t experience the Danger Point this time (although had in 1994 but was younger then!) Walked down to the view point which looks over to the Bridge where the bungee jumping takes place (111 metres high).

Talking of activities, apart from bungee jumping, there is zip-lining, abseiling, rapp jumping, and gorge swing drops.  Canoeing on the Zambezi above the Falls and white water rafting in the gorges below the Falls. Rapids are grade 5 classified which means ‘extremely difficult, long and violent rapids, steep gradients, big drops and pressure areas’.  I can vouch for all these so called adrenalin thrills when I rafted the Zambezi a few years ago in February, high water rafting time, full rainy season.  Also river boarding and kayaking.

The statistics of the Falls are 1.7 kilometres wide, and nearly 550 million litres of water cascade into the chasm below every minute during the Zambezi’s peak high water flow which is April, end of the rainy season, but the water from the catchment area upstream in Zambia has arrived.

All in all, it’s a tremendous experience but in my opinion I think it is better to visit the Falls when the water levels are lower when more can be seen of the cataracts and Falls themselves.  I once had a very good visit in November when the Falls were very low and it was possible to see the cataracts and Falls so clearly rather than an incomprehensible mist.

Back to the entrance and couldn’t pass by the Falls shop.. with good quality items on offer then outside is the array of craft stalls with a vast array of locally crafted items from amazing carvings to curios.

Back to the Hotel where we changed into dry clothing and packed before departing at 12 noon for our next lodge.

Before our transfer vehicle arrived,  I went over to the Victoria Falls Railway Station, built in 1904 which is just across from the Victoria Falls Hotel.  The station emits an air of bygone days with its pond and palm trees.  I have a great friend called Bridget, whose late husband, Douglas, was one of the worlds greatest railway (and timetable) buffs! She had given me a map of Africa showing the rail routes which had been in Douglas’ collection.  I had promised her that I would take some photos of the station … and very interestingly Rovos Rail was expected and tables were laid out with glasses of champagne ready for the lucky rail passengers bound for Pretoria who would be joining the train from the Victoria Falls Hotel.

At this point, I will tell you about the Victoria Falls Bridge.  Before the bridge was built,   the Zambezi river was crossed about the falls at the Old Drift by dugout canoe or a barge towed across the river with a steel cable.  The bridge across the gorge was built in 1905 as part of Cecil Rhodes’ ambitious but never realized Cape to Cairo railway (in fact the railways ended up at the border with the Congo).

At Victoria Falls, Rhodes insisted that the railway be built where spray from the falls would fall on passing trains, so the site at the Second Gorge was chosen.  The Victoria Falls Bridge was designed by George Andrew Hobson, of the consultant engineering firm, Sir Douglas Fox and Partners.

A single span steel arch was chosen as meeting all requirements for a double track railway.  The main arch of the bridge – 198metres long and 128 metres high above the low level water mark of the river – was joined on 1st April 1905 and officially opened on 12th September of the same year.  While the bridge had two railway lines, it had no road in the early days; the few road vehicles that wanted to use it had to pay to be transported over the river by rail or use the Old Drift upstream.  In 1930, the bridge was widened to permit road traffic and one of the two rail tracks was removed.  This modification involved widening the bridge by 4 metres to carry the road and pavements.  In 1975, during the Bush War in Zimbabwe, the bridge was the site of unsuccessful peace talks between the African National Congress and Ian Smith’s Rhodesian government; the parties met in a train carriage poised above the gorge for 9.5 hours.

The centre of the bridge now marks the boundary between Zimbabwe and Zambia and is the site of the famous Victoria Falls bungee jump!

Off we went to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge which is about 20 minutes out of town.

The Lodge is a superbly designed thatched structure that resembles an opulent open plan tree house overlooking a busy waterhole.  Quality African décor, mosaic tiled floor, stunning stone-rimmed swimming pool and deck, excellent restaurants, very comfortable rooms (we use the upgraded deluxe rooms), and tremendous views.  Probably because we had come from the Victoria Falls Hotel, I found it rather like a very busy resort… had a fellow in local dress, feathers etc to welcome us!  Room was comfortable on two levels.  The best thing for me was the waterhole with a steady stream of wildlife including kudu, and a big herd of buffalo at sunset.  Naughty vervet monkeys running along the balcony which didn’t like being told to ‘go away’ and bared their pointed fangs at us!

At 1500, I had site inspection of the new Club Rooms and Lokuthula Lodge which has beautiful 2 and 3 bedroom self catering units (time share). All on same site as VFSL.

Collected at 1545 by Zambezi Helicopter Company minivan and taken 5 minutes to helicopter site.  Well set up operation (USD140 per person plus USD12 local charge??)  Flight of the Angels over the Falls.  Four of us in chopper with me in front next to pilot.  So lucky to have this position although a bit scary at first as I could see through a hole in the floor!  The pilot looked about 12 but I guess he knew what he was doing.. ha!ha!!

We took off very quickly, straight up in the air, and swung away towards the river.  Amazing scenery and got great footage in my prime position.

Just incredible seeing everything from the air… the mighty Zambezi looked so blue and the spray from the Falls rose way up in the sky so that we could almost touch it.  Much better appreciation of the Falls from the air than down amongst the spray.

The flight was 15 minutes long but seemed much longer and well worth every cent.

There was a film of the flight and our group before and after but nobody bought the USD30 film (probably because it was so unflattering to each of us.. I vow never to wear that outfit again!!)  Back to the lodge.

We were booked to go to The Boma Place of Eating for dinner at 1900 and were collected from the lobby.  This is highly recommended experience for visitors to Victoria Falls and unashamedly touristy.. but great fun!  It is only about 5 minutes from the Lodge so very handy for guests staying there.  Although, tourists come from most of the hotels/lodges in the area for the ‘show’.  The Boma is housed in an impressive, partially open thatched ‘boma’ and has a great African atmosphere with dancing, singing and a fortune teller.  Excellent nightly buffet of traditional Zimbabwean dishes such as fried kapenta fish and Mopani worms, a variety of game meat and potjies (stews), though there’s plenty for the less adventurous including spit roasts, stir fries, various vegetarian dishes and decadent desserts.

Before we got into the boma eating/entertainment area we were ‘accosted’ by a local dance troupe to take part in some tribal jigabout.

A very good evening all in all and certainly no shortage of food.  Great music and entertainment and would thoroughly recommend the experience for our Real Africa guests. (Cost USD40 per person).

By Lily Appleby Newby

When’s the best time to see Victoria Falls and what is a Lunar Rainbow?

$
0
0

May to July is the best time to see Victoria Falls and the natural phenomenon, the Lunar Rainbow.

As far as natural spectacles go, you’d be hard pressed to beat seeing Victoria Falls in full flood.  One of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, and the largest waterfall in the world based on height and width, Victoria Falls is situated on the Zambezi River at the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe. May to July are considered to be the optimum months to see the Falls and to get a glimpse of the magical Lunar Rainbow.

Lunar Rainbow

A lunar rainbow or moonbow occurs when light from the full moon is refracted through the spray of the Falls. During full flood the spray can rise as much as 450 metres into the air. However it is not simply a case of viewing the Falls during full flood. To maximise your chances of glimpsing a moonbow you need to be even more precise. The optimum time is during early evening, just after moon rise, on either the night before, the night of, or the night after a full moon.
The Victoria Falls Rainforest opens specially on these nights to allow visitors to walk the pathways hugging the Falls and to view the lunar rainbow. It’s a magical experience.
Full moon dates in the coming months are as follows:

April 14-16

May 13-15

June 12-14

July 11-13

Best months to visit the Falls? That’s a tricky one. It depends on what you want to do. 

Victoria Falls is a year round destination. The main rainy season in this area stretches from November to March. Increased water means more spray which in turn means more rainbows and the chance to see a moonbow surely? That’s all true but be aware that in February and March when the volume of water and subsequent spray reaches a peak it creates a widespread mist sometimes to the extent that the base of the Falls disappears from view.  So although it is impressive to see the Falls in full flood, and the Falls do roar loudly at this time, adding to the overall drama, the downside is that photography can be challenging and walking the pathways can be a very wet affair! You have been warned!

This is why May to July are widely considered to be the best months to see the Falls. During these months, water levels though still exceptionally high, do not create quite so much mist as to obscure the view.

In the dry season months between August and November the water flow reduces as you would expect and you can see more of the dramatic rock face. More pathways and trails can be accessed. Game viewing is also excellent along the Zambezi and surrounding areas at this time as the grass is short and wildlife collects at watering holes and along the river.

Where to stay

There are some really incredible lodges around the Falls, benefiting from spectacular locations along the Zambezi River,  both on the Zambian side (Livingstone) and Zimbabwean side (Victoria Falls). We recommend a minimum stay of three nights to fully enjoy all that the area has to offer.

Some properties are within walking distance of the pathways surrounding the Falls, like the historic Victoria Falls Hotel or Ilala Lodge while others offer a regular shuttle bus service to the Falls, like the beautiful Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, in a commanding west-facing position on a plateau just four kilometres away. You’ll also find wonderful romantic hideaways like Tongabezi Lodge, upstream from the Falls, or Waterberry Lodge, great for families, with its beautiful cottages and a private safari house along the river.
An 11 night itinerary in Zimbabwe combining safari in Hwange National Park with time at Victoria Falls costs from £2,885 per person including international flights, taxes and transfers. To see a full sample itinerary click here.

Why not combine a safari in Kenya or South Africa with a stay at Victoria Falls? For further inspiration please see our website.

By Sara White

 

 

How many UNESCO World Heritage Sites are there in Africa?

$
0
0

UNESCO (The United Nation’s Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation) runs a programme to protect and maintain places that are extremely important either for conservation of the environment or culturally important sites. These places are given UNESCO World Heritage Site status in order to protect them under international law and to be able to raise funds to help secure their protection for the future. There are currently 981 sites worldwide of which 759 are cultural and 193 are natural and 29 are both.

So how many are there in Africa? Well, there are an amazing 94 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and they range from all kinds of natural environment to incredible ancient cultural sites. Unsurprisingly really considering Africa is the birthplace of mankind and also home to some of the most diverse landscapes and wildlife on the planet.

In Southern Africa there are some incredible sites all worth visiting. In Zimbabwe you have Mana Pools National Park, the Great Zimbabwe Monument and of course shared with Zambia the world famous Mosi-oa-Tunya otherwise known as Victoria Falls. In South Africa you can visit various Humanid Fossil Sites or the stunning beautiful Drakensburg region. In Namibia there is the Namib Sand Sea with its enormous sand dunes and Twyfelfontein. In neighbouring Botswana its Tsodilo makes the list and in Malawi it’s the Lake Malawi National Park and the ancient rock art of Chongoni.

In Eastern Africa there are so many UNESCO World Heritage Sites you would have to return many times over to see them all. In Ethiopia there are the famous cultural sites of Lalibela, Aksum, the Omo Valley and Fasil Ghebbi in Gondar but did you know that the stunning Simien Mountains were also a world heritage site under UNESCO’s protection? Other cultural sites include Stone Town on Zanzibar, Fort Jesus in Mombasa, Lamu’s Old Town in Kenya and the rock art sites of Kondoa in Tanzania.

Of course East Africa is famous for its stunning scenery and much of this has world heritage status including the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Serengeti National Park, Selous Game Reserve and Kilimanjaro National Park – and that’s just Tanzania. In Kenya the Great Lake region of the Rift Valley, Lake Turkana National Park and Mount Kenya National Park are all protected with this status. Over in neighbouring Uganda the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park and the Rwenzori National Park are both world heritage sites as is the Virunga National Park in Rwanda. And last but not least one of our favourite destinations in Mozambique, the island of Mozambique itself has world heritage status.

In fact Africa has so many important sites that another umbrella group was set up to run the programme. The African World Heritage Fund (AWHF) is the first regional funding initiative within the framework of the UNESCO World Heritage Convention. Created in 2006 through a joint initiative by the Government of South Africa, the African Union and UNESCO, the African World Heritage Fund is an intergovernmental organization based in South Africa whose mission is to assist African countries in: increasing the number of African sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List, conserving and managing natural and cultural heritage, rehabilitating sites on the list of World Heritage in Danger, training heritage experts and site managers, and ensuring the participation of local communities in decisions concerning their heritage and to ensure that they receive tangible benefits from World Heritage. On Friday 31 January 2014, UNESCO joined forces with the African Union Commission to raise awareness and funds for the African World Heritage Fund (AWHF) during the African Union (AU) Heads of State luncheon at the AU Headquarters in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. Participants pledged a total of three million US dollars in support of the AWHF Endowment Fund.

It is good to know that these amazing beautiful and historic places are being actively protected and that future generations will be able to enjoy them and learn from them as we have. The only problem I have is trying to decide which one to visit next……….

Posted by Ruth

Safaris with soul – it’s not just about seeing the Big Five anymore

$
0
0

Why do people go on safari? To see the wildlife of course.

But things are changing in Africa. The sad reality is, that unless we act together the Big Five may well be a thing of the past.

If any of you watched the Martin Clunes documentary on Friday night, about Mugie the lion, you’ll have heard the shocking statistics about the threat to lions in the wild  - less than 32,000 lions remain in the wild and Africa has lost between 30 and 50% of its lions in the last twenty years alone.

If you follow our Facebook page you’ll know how passionate we are about anti-poaching campaigns, along with our support of the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust elephant orphanage in Nairobi, Kenya via the Real Africa Trust.

The bottom line is that our wildlife and habitats need safeguarding for the future and tourism plays a major role in this.

Increasingly now,  as part of the safari experience, you can witness first hand ‘modern conservation’ in action. Modern conservation is the term given to describe the delicate relationship between wildlife, tourism and conservation. This experience can add a whole new and fulfilling dimension to your safari.

The team here at Real Africa have hand-picked some very special fly-in modules which transport guests to largely remote areas of Africa, at the forefront of the modern conservation movement.  Here you can combine the thrill of Big Five safari while staying in luxury at a beautiful lodge or camp,  with visits to uplifting community or conservation projects, research centres or programmes. This adds a fantastic extra dimension and in our opinion a real African experience.

By staying at such lodges who work together with conservation trusts you are  helping directly and giving something back.  The continuing success of these projects undeniably hold the key to the future of safari.

For us, the following camps and lodges really shine when it comes to community and conservation.

To find out more and to see detailed sample itineraries please click here.


Zimbabwe – Singita Pamushana fly-in

  • 3 nights at Singita Pamushana in the remote and exceedingly beautiful far reaches of Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve

Highlights

  • Seeing black and white rhino, many of which have been re-introduced to the park as part of Singita’s comprehensive programme of conservation and community action – you can also track rhino with a ranger
  • Dining under the lantern lit ancient baobab canopy
  • Cruising at sunset on the dam below the lodge
  • Jaw dropping location and stylish private suites with infinity pools including family suites

About Singita Pamushana  

The lodge is the ecotourism arm of the not-for-profit Malilangwe Trust, and its role is to help foster the sustainability of the wildlife and broader ecology, while enabling guests to share the magic of the lodge and the 130,000 acre wildlife reserve. Guests can visit projects, such as the Child Supplementary Feeding Programme, initiated by Singita Pamushana in partnership with the Trust, following the acute drought of 2002.

19.000 children, most under five, benefit daily from the programme. Guests can also learn about the rhino re-introduction programme which has been a great success with black and white rhino thriving in the reserve.

During your stay you are likely to spot a great variety of wildlife including species such as black rhino, white rhino, Lichtenstein hartebeest, sable, nyala, klipspringer, cheetah, wild dog, lion, leopard and an abundance of bird life.

Kenya – Samburu Singing Wells and the Mara Fly-in

  • Combines 2 nights at Sarara Lodge in the dramatic Mathews Range, Northern Kenya  with 3 nights at Kicheche Valley Camp in the Masai Mara. The Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust, which works in partnership with Sarara Camp, is widely recognised as one of the most successful community and conservation projects in Africa.

Highlights

  • Sunrise visit to the Sarara Singing Well where the local Samburu tribespeople come to water their cattle. The Samburu warriors form a human chain to bring water up from the well, chanting as they do so
  • The views and the tranquility
  • Watching wildlife from the hide by the watering hole and looking for leopard on game drives
  • Spending time with the Samburu guides
About Sarara Camp
30,000 elephant and rhino were killed by poachers between 1977 and 1995,  when the Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust was at last  formed. Sarara Camp works with the Trust and local Samburu people to change attitudes to wildlife and to secure the area from poachers. Elephant, leopard, reticulated giraffe, wild dog and kudu are present in ever increasing numbers across this remote and dramatic landscape and income from the camp helps to continue this valuable work.
There are just 6 luxury tents at Sarara, all positioned to make the most of the jaw dropping views. The water hole is just below the mess and wonderful rock hewn swimming pool and so much of this wildlife can be seen from camp, but there are also many activities to enjoy from mountain biking and game drives to bush suppers and bird watching.

Tanzania – Singita Serengeti fly-in

3 nights in a private luxury cottage at Singita Sasakwa, in the Grumeti region of the Serengeti, protected by the  Grumeti Community and Wildlife Conservation Fund.

Highlights

  • Serengeti wildlife
  • Meeting students from the Environmental Educational Centre, dedicated to educating local young people about the Serengeti Ecosystem and the importance of conservation
  • Wonderful private cottages with infinity pools which ooze classic 1920s style
About Singita Sasakwa
Singita Grumeti is located next to the Serengeti National Park. 350,000 acres are protected by the Singita Grumeti Find, a not-for-profit organisation which aims to safeguard this important migration corridor. Prior to 2002 poaching in the area was having an adverse effect on wildlife, community and tourism. The Anti Poaching Unit is comprised of 120 game scouts who working alongside the Wildlife Division  have made a massive impact, virtually eradicating illegal activity within the concession. Black rhino have been reintroduced and there is also an invasive plant project which aims to control the spread of invasive species in the Serengeti Mara ecosystem.
There are only nine cottages and one villa at Sasakwa – all are private with pools. Activities include Landrover safaris, bush walks and mountain biking.

South Africa – Cape Town Tswalu Kalahari fly-in

  • Combines 4 nights at the stunning Cape Grace on Cape Town’s colourful V&A Waterfront with 4 nights at Tswalu Kalahari, where you have the chance to see the desert black rhino, black maned lion and San Bushmen carvings and to see the wonderful work of the Tswalu Foundation.

Highlights

  • Tswalu’s new Malori sleep-out deck experience where guests, including families, are invited to sleep out under the stars surrounded by the majesty of the Kalahari. The Malori deck is a raised platform with thatched overhang, complete with luxurious king sized bed (and camp beds for children) and lantern-lit outdoor bathroom
  • Meeting the meerkats
  • Seeing the Kalahari’s famously powerful  black maned lions
About Tswalu Kalahari
South Africa’s largest private game reserve is owned by the Oppenheimer family and conservation is their number one priority. The Kalahari has been inhabited by Bushmen for 20,000 years but because of the inhospitable environment the area has remained undeveloped by modern man and so remains a great true wilderness. The southern Kalahari is known as the ‘green’ Kalahari, recieving more rain than the central Kalahari and therfore supporting a greater diversity of wildlife – this is where Tswalu is located.
The Tswalu Foundation assists in developing  research programmes to better understand this vast, unique and very beautiful area. Guests are enocuraged to get involved and interact with researchers – a fantastic opportunity.
In addition there are a number of incredible activities to enjoy such as a sunrise visit to the meerkat colonies, enjoying sundowners on the dunes or even spending a morning tracking Desert Black Rhino.

South Africa – Camp Jabulani fly-in

  •  3 nights at Camp Jabulani, situated within a Big 5 reserve near to Kruger National Park and the only camp to offer elephant back safaris other than Camp Abu Botswana.  Staff aim to ‘indulge, spoil, pamper and entertain guests, but most importantly, to share with them the story and the experience of the elephants.’

Highlights

  • Interacting with the camp’s herd of elephant and learning about how they came to be there; you can watch them swim and take a night time elephant back safari
  • Visiting the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre (HESC)
  • Being pampered!

About Camp Jabulani

Camp Jabulani was born after the rescue of a single elephant. Now there is a herd, all rescued and rehabilitated and living a good life. Guests are able to interact with the herd at much closer proximity than would be usual on safari, personally bonding with this incredible animals. In turn guests then spread the word about wildlife conservation. It’s a formula that is really working here.

Not only can guests try out an elephant back safari, by night, but also enjoy game viewing in 4x4s within the Kapama Game Reserve which lies in close proximity to Kruger and has a great density and variety of wildlife. There are only six suites – all very luxurious and also a Therapy Lapa for spa treatments.

The HESC is a leading light in private research and breeding facilities for endangered species in the country. There is a cheetah breeding programme and animal hospital and guests can visit the facility during their stay giving a valuable insight into conservation.

By Sara White


Lily in Zimbabwe Part 1: Mana Pools

$
0
0

Good Friday, 18 April

Departed Ulverston by train at 09h07 to Manchester Airport.  Checked in (with luggage tagged to HRE via LHR and JNB) at Terminal 3 for Virgin ‘Little Red’ VS7650 to London Heathrow departing 14h40, arrived 15h45.  Smooth flight on Airbus 320, seat configuration 3/3 = 30 rows = 180 pax.  Arrived Terminal 1, LHR, and made our way by flight connection route to International Departures to await our South African Airways flight to Johannesburg (SA237 departing 21h00)

Called to the gate at 19h30 and boarded in due course. The flight was very quiet and our allocated space 65AC was surrounded by empty seats so once the door were closed,  I moved quickly to 66C and enjoyed two seat space all the way to Joburg.

Comfortable flight with complimentary amenity pack (which included toothpaste/brush, socks, eye shades etc), tasty meal and good choice of inflight entertainment.

Saturday, 19 April

09h20 arrived Johannesburg O.R. Tambo International Airport, followed signs for International Connections, queued for passport and onward flight ticket check, followed by security check of hand luggage/liquids etc.  Finally channelled into International Departures Lounge and the fabulous Joburg Duty Free area/shops etc.

Mentally ‘marked’ items for purchase in the ‘Out of Africa’, Cape Union Mart and Indaba shops for when we came back thru JNB on 4th May.

11h30- flew South African Airways SA22 (comfortable 3/3 Airbus) to Harare arriving 13h10.  Given Zimbabwe immigration forms on plane for completion then queued at immigration ‘visa required’ channel on arrival, called forward, paid USD$55, passport stamped.  All in all, a very straight forward process.

General impression of Harare airport so far was that everything functioning normally although not as many airport shops as in Heathrow.Clean but a little bare (noticeable in contrast to all our Western clutter!)

Met by pleasant fellow from Hilton Transfer services in the Arrivals Hall and driven towards Harare skyline.  As last year, limited cars on road and not as many people around as in e.g. Nairobi between JKIA and town.

Arrived in the Borrowdale suburb of Harare after approximately 25 minutes and drew up outside the Armadale Boutique Lodge.  Warmly welcomed by Alyona, the duty manager, who, although Russian, has been living in Zimbabwe for over 25 years.

Set among landscaped gardens, the Lodge was originally built as a farmhouse in 1904.  Nine en suite bedrooms with elegant decor, satellite TV, and WIFI. Dining room and two communal lounges, swimming pool.  Enjoyed afternoon tea on the verandah with the best carrot cake I have ever tasted!  Tasty supper in the evening with butternut soup and fresh croutons, tilapia fish with trimmings, and another ‘best’ in the form of milk tart (a very traditional African pudding).  Amongst the antiques and memorabilia, Alyona had lit a cosy fire in the open hearth to guard against the evening chill – after all, it is autumn/winter in Zimbabwe!

Wifi was very hit and miss but managed to get an email sent to Paul to pass on our safe arrival to the families back in UK.

See below map of Zimbabwe which will be useful when locating different areas visited, i.e. Harare, Mana Pools NP, Lake Kariba, Matusadona NP, Hwange NP and Victoria Falls Airport.

  We had a good chat with the owner, Nikki, who gave us some insight into how shopping for instance has changed – now many more local people grow fruit/vegetables for sale in the local markets.  In typical Zimbabwean ‘make a plan’ style, she said it’s possible to get most things in order to run a lodge/guesthouse, but sometimes one has to search around.

Not like the west where everything is on display in the hypermarkets/superstores.                                                                    

Sunday, 20 April, (Harare to Mana Pools)

0630 wake up call followed by very good breakfast i.e. fruit, muesli, yoghurt followed by full ‘Zimbabwean’ of eggs, bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms, hash browns, toast and pancakes… washed down with fresh coffee!

Good to see a blue sky, sunny with coolish breeze.   Weather hardly ever discussed by the locals as they take it for granted when the sun shines!  Interesting to note that when the weather is in early 70′s, its termed ‘winter weather’.

April/May is Autumn and in my opinion an excellent time to travel with sunny days in 70′s and cooler nights.

Our transfer by Hilton Transfer Services was waiting to drive us back to the airport and Domestic Terminal for our light aircraft flight to Mana Pools with Alt Air.

Views en route showed the populace getting on with their daily business including the open air stone mason workshop crafting the local sort after soapstone statues including birds (akka the Great Zimbabwe falcons -more later) and the Big Five.  Vehicles and bicycles only heavy at traffic lights.

Arrived at the Domestic Terminal (08h45) to find our pilot, Giles Raydor, waiting on the steps for us.  He collected our $15 per person departure tax and paid it to the necessary government office in the airport, put fuel in the tank of our little Cessna 206, loaded his two passengers on board and took off.

We were the first flight out of the day at 09h20, flying low at first over the outskirts of Harare.  I was expecting to see shanty towns but instead there below were neat, orderly housing areas.  Flew over other areas where previous agriculture could be seen but not tended recently and then further, flew over well tended fields.

We flew north towards Mana Pools National Park passing over farmland in full use with untended fields gone to scrub to the side.

From cultivated areas we flew over forested hills, again with bare patches where the trees had been cut down, in many cases for firewood but as Giles explained, no replanting had been done.  Flew over the Zambezi escarpment towards the Lower Zambezi Valley.  Very scenic area, thickly wooded with rivers (e.g. Chipori), pans (natural depression forming waterhole), occasionally saw elephant as we looked down from a height of about 3,000 feet.

After approximately one hour flight, we landed at Mana Main airstrip where Humphrey Gumpo from Tailor Made Safaris was waiting for us in the camp Land Rover.

ABOUT MANA POOLS AREA and the NATIONAL PARK

The Lower Zambezi Valley begins after the water from the dammed lake (Kariba) becomes a river again, running along the base of the Zambezi Escarpment immediately to its south.  Further downstream, the river emerges from a deep gorge to spread across a flat, fertile floodplain that is being reshaped by nature to form pools and oxbow lakes.

The Mana (Shona word meaning ‘four’) Pools area consists of four main pools- depressions filled with water in abandoned river channels and several smaller ones scattered along the river course with cliffs overhanging the river and the floodplains providing sustenance to a large and varied wildlife population. In this area, the Zambezi River meanders through a wide valley, repeatedly splaying out into islands, channels and sandbanks, with escarpments rising dramatically on either side.

Chine and Long Pool hold water throughout the year and attract large animal concentrations in the dry season.

Mana Pools is part of the 10,500 square kilometre Parks Wildlife Estate that runs from the Kariba Dam to the Mozambican border in the east.  This large area has no physical boundaries and, without fences, the wildlife is free to move wherever it wants, even northwards across the Zambezi river into Zambia.

The Park occupies 2,196 square kilometres of prime Zambezi waterfront vegetation, much of it inaccessible except on foot and as a result completely unspoilt.  The landscape includes islands and sandbanks fringed by dense vforests of baobabs and indigenous trees, as well as the rugged Zambezi Escarpment.

Big old trees, mainly Faedherbia albida (known as Acacia Albida but unlike a true acacia it sheds its leaves in summer) provide a shady canopy with sparse undergrowth, which makes for easy walking and this is one reason it is perfect for walking safaris.  Elephants love the Albida trees’ hard, flat ‘apple ring’ pods (pictured) and can often be seen shaking them out of the branches before hovering them up with the enthusiasm of a child with a bag of sweets!  Jesse bush, a member of the combretum family, also known as trailing bush willow is widespread.

The National Park is famous for its magnificent elephants that return year after year to the same places.  Some guides have developed extraordinary, trusting relationships with particular animals and offer their clients close-up interactions they will never forget.

Buffalo are always about and predators such as leopard, lion and cheetah are regularly seen.  The Pools are also a haven for Nile crocodiles and large hippo pods as well as black rhino.

The area is perfect for birds as it offers a wide range of habitats, both from woodland to scrub and escarpment cliffs to open plains, with both arid and wet conditions.  Amongst the 380 recorded species are the Nyasa lovebird, Livingstone’s flycatcher, white collared pratincole, banded snake eagle and yellow-spotted nicator.

Fish eagles and many species of stork, heron and other waterfowl are common.  White throated bee-eaters seen nesting in the river banks and the rarer Carmine bee-eaters visit in the dry months to nest in colonies in the river banks and rare treats include the elusive Pels fishing owl and the African skimmer which nests in sandbanks mid river.

Chitake Springs in the southern part of the park, 50 kilometres from the Zambezi is an isolated area of vital importance to wildlife.   In the rainy season, the Chitake River floods into the Rukomechi River and in turn into the Zambezi, but from April- when these systems dry up and the waterholes empty – the springs form a crucial source of water and a focus for a great variety of wildlife.  As the dry season progresses, more and more animals descend on the springs creating perfect conditions for predators such as lion, leopard, hyena and wild dog to grow fat!!

Tailor Made Camp, Mana Pools National Park Unesco World Heritage Site

We watched Giles fly off towards Kariba and we commenced our journey to Tailor Made Camp with Humphrey.  Little did we know at this stage that we were in the company of one of Zimbabwe’s top guides but we soon became enlightened to the fact by his astounding knowledge of the flora and fauna of Mana Pools.  Stopped by track as we saw a small group of elephants browsing through the woodland… after a couple of minutes, H suggested we get off the vehicle and stand by a large tree as the eles seemed to be heading our way.  Slightly apprehensive about this but thought he seemed to know what he was doing and he had a gun!  Out came the JVC and I started filming as the small group of pachyderms came nearer and nearer.  It was amazing how they held their trunks up, sniffing the air (and us!).  And they were grunting (talking/communicating) between each other saying ‘these humans are no threat so let’s ignore them and get on with our business, i.e. eating’.  Humphrey quietly said ‘blend with the tree’ and I kept on filming as the eles were only a few yards away … at this point I think my eyes were closed!!

Totally incredible experience… everyone very relaxed including ourselves (eventually!!) following Humphrey’s example.  Probably the best and most intimate wildlife experience I have ever had in Africa.

Continued on along the river bank and stopped at the BBC site (so called because the BBC had been here many years ago making a film).  See photo of buffalo skull with Zambezi in background.

Watched troop of chacma baboons jumping a stream… back and forth with young riding jockey style on their mothers.

Great stands of Acacia Albida trees and Natal Mahogany to name but a few of the many species found here.

Arrived at Tailormade Camp set on the banks of the Zambezi to a warm welcome by the staff of eight…. cold flannels and drinks followed by lunch (stir fry pasta) set out under a shady tree.

Tent with twin beds and basic facilities including separate zipped area to rear of tent (open to sky) with long drop lavatory, bucket shower and wash basin.  Lighting by solar power.

As Humphrey explained to us over a cup of tea/cake at 1630…

Activities in Mana Pools are diverse and range from game drives, exciting walking safaris, canoeing safaris and interactions with relatively relaxed wildlife in Mana Pools are unique. The combination of these interactions with such concentrations of wildlife and the scenery dominated by the escarpment and river that characterise the rich alluvial floodplains create an unmistakable image.

Cup of tea at 1630 then away on game drive with Humphrey…followed by walk back to camp with Humphrey fully armed.  Came close to family group of eles but because of young calves in the group we watched sitting atop an ant hill about 200 yards away.

They were browsing around an Acacia Albida and quite unconcerned at our presence.

We walked towards the river at times in long (adrenaline) grass with Humphrey giving us the lowdown on the ground vegetation, trees and any mammals we came across such as impala, waterbuck and chacma baboons.

The sun went down over the Zambezi but the temperature remained warm.  We arrived back in camp in the fading light then sat round the fire sipping gin and tonics looking out onto the darkened river and over towards Zambia on the opposite bank.  Lights glowing from various riverside camps/lodges in the Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia such as Royal Zambezi Lodge.

The sky was so black and the stars so bright including the Southern Cross… Humphrey pointed out various aspects of the constellations and heavens.

Freshened up with hot bucket shower in the dimly lit tent (better to have dim lights=minimum insect attention!).

Supper under the trees and stars… delicious steak, salad and potato wedges.  Bed by 2230, very comfortable mattress and pillow.  Lion and hyena calling in the night as well as the honking of hippo who were mooching around camp, grazing in the moonlight.

Monday, 21 April, (Tailor Made Camp to Vundu Camp)

Up 0515, hot coffee and muffins by the camp fire.  Walked with the ‘team’ along the river bank to the canoe launch site.  Safety talk by Humphrey, very concise.  Kitted out with life jackets and waterproof bags for cameras etc and I climbed into the canoe with Edmo who is the canoe expert regularly taking clients on the river for the past 17 years and running the canoe trails.  I was in the front of the canoe and Edmo doing the paddling behind… I occasionally paddled but it was very relaxing to know that Edmo was in charge and I could sit there and enjoy the scenery (taking photos and scrutinising the banking with binos) as we glided past islands, along wide channels and sandbanks.  It is interesting how one sees the river differently when in a canoe at ‘river level’ … felt very much part of the river and its life especially when skirting pods of hippo! Bird life magnificent and remember seeing large flock of woolly necked storks on distant sandbank.          

There were six of us in three canoes i.e. Humphrey/Jean (canoe 1), Camp Manager Justin and Rose (canoe 2) and Edmo and I (canoe 3)…. in that order on the river.

After about 40 minutes paddling, we pulled the canoes out of the water and clambered up a bank for a ‘look around’, Humphrey armed in case of need.  Walked amongst the magnificent trees then very carefully and quietly crouched low made for a high river bank  where we sat and observed a pod of hippos in the water below us – it was a case of both parties keeping careful watch on each other!

From there we walked into inland again with Humphrey pointing out various tracks, some of which were very fresh inc. lion (4 toes round one pad) and hyena (3 toes) from the night.  Spotted a Gymnogene (African Harrier Hawk), searching around the ground for lizards – colour light mottled brown with yellow face.  Back to the canoes and continued on our way upriver towards Goliath Camp where we pulled out of water again,  I had arranged to have a site visit here (and ideally would have liked to stay but camp didn’t officially open until 2nd May).

Goliath Camp is owned and run by a renowned professional guide called Stretch Ferreira and offers one of the best bush experiences in Africa.  Stretch has been operating in Mana Pools for over 30 years and his Goliath camp is nestled in a grove of trees on the banks of the river.  Six East African comfortable safari tents with en suite facilities, a step up from Tailormade Camp in terms of luxury.  Covered lounge and bar with open air dining area.  Book early to avoid disappointment!  Junior guide Reuben showed me round, even in the kitchen, workshop and staff quarters.  Flo, who is Stretch’s partner, had instructed Reuben to ask me if there were any criticisms of the camp which would be helpful to know but in truth, I couldn’t think of anything… Goliath was more comfortable than I expected (even with flushing loo!) and the location was a dream.  One day I will return and stay at the camp and take a walk with Stretch!  He and Humphrey are great friends so was able to glean more background about this incredible man.

Loaded up canoes in separate vehicle and headed back to Tailormade camp, gamedriving en route.  Quickly packed and sad farewells to Humphrey and his team.

TAILORMADE CAMP EXPERIENCE IS AMAZING IN TERMS OF LOCATION, CAMP AMBIENCE, GAME VIEWING stunning… not for first time safari-goers but for clients very keen on genuine bush experience with plenty of variety – combinations of game drives/walks then game drives/walks and canoe trails.     

Collected from Tailormade camp by Michelle, Howard and their 14 year old daughter, Caley, who are friends of the owners of Vundu Camp (and live in Harare), our next camp along the river.  They’d volunteered to come and collect us … Howard has a hunting concession in Mozambique so very au fait with the bush.. and its flora and fauna as was demonstrated on our 1.5 hour drive to Vundu.  Wow! Great knowledge of birds, beasts et al.

Arrived 1330 at Vundu Camp nestled amongst a grove of beautiful rivirine forest, including trees such as huge old zambezi figs, ebonys, raintrees, wild mangoes and tamarinds.

Had a warm family greeting by the owners, Desiree and Nick Murray, their 7 year old daughter, Tayt and Desiree’s father, Peter.

Delicious lunch served on long dining table in the main lodge area which is set in a canopy of riverine trees on the bank of the Zambezi River. Raised 10 feet off the ground, it is the ideal place to enjoy a cocktail and watch the elephants feed on the bushes below, or observe the monkeys climbing nearby trees. The thatched roof provides shade from the mid-day sun.

There is an excellent pan behind the camp with a tree stand for sitting , relaxing and watching the game come down to drink.  All the rooms and the main lodge have a view of the Zambezi River, being on average about fifteen meters from the bank .  Narrower channel here than at Tailormade Camp so Zambia seemed much closer, but still plenty of river inbetween.

There are 8 large tents with openair shower/ensuite area all with views of the river.  Electricity in the tents (yippee for charging nearly flat camera batteries etc, but no wifi) which we found very novel! after 24 hours of limited lighting at Tailormade Camp.

Both Nick and Desiree are Zim Pro guides and Nick does most of guiding and Desiree manages the day to day functions of the camp.

Quick unpack then back to lounge area for afternoon tea inc delicious lemon cake.  We set off on walk (tracking lion) with Nick and two other guests, one of which was walking with two sticks after a recent knee replacement operation.  This showed how confident Nick was in dealing with any unexpected events on the walk.  Richard and his sticks completed the four kilometre walk successfully – I spend some time walking with him and he told me how he’d been involoved in Operation Noah (with Rupert Fothergill) during flooding of the Batonga Valley to form Lake Kariba in 1960.  Walked in a big loop back to the river… standing by an Acacia Albida tree, we could see the sun going down behind the Zambezi Escarpment and looking inland, we could see a small group of elephants browsing the trees in the evening sunshine.

From there we walked along the river bank and joined all the others from camp including Desiree, Michelle, Nick’s mother (Sue), Desiree’s father (Peter), their kids Jed (10) and his sister, Tayt, plus Michelle’s three daughters ranging from 14, 10 and 4 years (Caley, Chelsea and Savannah).  All the kids were fishing as well as Howard and Richard.  Fishing is a great activity by the Zambezi and offered in every camp.  Big shout when Jed caught a large catfish almost as big as himself. .. other important fish of the river include tiger fish and bream. We sat along the river bank (on safari chairs), drinking sundowners watching the sky turn a most amazing pink/red/purple, nibbling canapés, enjoying the ambience of this wonderful scene.

Loaded up into respective Land Rovers when darkness fell and drove back to Vundu Camp with the spotlight on (operated by Jed sitting on Land Rover bonnet).

Quick freshen up then back to main lodge area under the big roof! – drinks at the ‘bar’ then supper at long table in candle light.

Delicious supper and great atmosphere round the table.

Sound nights sleep in comfortable bed.

Tuesday, 22 April - (Vundu Camp to Ruckomechi Camp)

Lie in until 0700 followed by tasty ‘FULL ZIMBABWEAN breakfast’ then short site inspection with Desiree who showed me the newly renovated tents with smart tile flooring.  All ideally placed overlooking the river.

I was sorry to leave Vundu Camp as I would have liked longer to explore this very special camp and environment… another camp to return to – so far this has applied to each camp we have visited in Mana Pools!

The atmosphere at Vundu, especially during our visit which included the Easter holiday break, was very family orientated which gave us an insight into Zimbabwean life and upbringing of children.  Very down to earth and unpampered were the children and the favourite past time seemed to be playing TSORO, a board game rather like BAO.

At 09h30, loaded into Land Rover, driven by Desiree with father Peter as escort and set off on the 1.5 hour game drive transfer to Mana West airstrip (run by Wilderness Safaris to service their Ruckomechi Camp on the western side of Mana Pools National Park).

Stands of tall mopane tree woodland interspersed with dead mopane trees – affected by mineral rich soil.

Arrived at 1100 and there was Henry and Paul from Ruckomechi waiting for us.  Climbed aboard and off we drove back towards the mighty Zambezi arriving at Ruckomechi Classic Wilderness Camp at 13h00, in time for lunch.  The camp is set on its own private concession in a shady grove of Albida and Mahogany trees.   Cold towels and cold drink welcome from friendly front of house staff (Thys, Aimee, Elizabeth) followed by prompt camp rules and indemnity signature (standard Wilderness pattern of doing things).  Walked along low level wooden walkway (lowering the environmental impact) to our fabulous ‘tent’ with everything one could ever need including a copper sink! Both indoor and outdoor showers …AND a secluded ‘bath with a view’ in a quiet spot on the other side of the main camp area where guests can enjoy this experience at night complete with candles, bubbles and the stars overhead in the night sky.

All tents (10) have solar power and overlook the river and we had a patio which came in very handy for drying some washing draped over chairs etc… not really the Wilderness way but very useful.  Very hot so clothes dried quickly.

Delicious brunch of lamb lasagne, salad in the dining area… joined by Elizabeth who was very happy to talk to us about Wilderness and Mana Pools area.  . There is a separate deck with an infinity pool for swimming and sunbathing, and an inviting, cushion-strewn star gazing deck.

Charging facilities for batteries etc but no wifi.  I found it heartening that no camps we stayed at in Mana Pools offered wifi (even the great Wilderness!!) as it shows how confident they are in this magnificent wildlife area being strong enough to overcome guests’ often blinkered view that life is not life without the internet!

Duly assembled at 15h30 for cup of tea then met our guide, drove to the river and boarded the motor cruiser for afternoon game viewing in the Zambezi.  Sailed out into the river passing islands … wonderful close viewing of elephants browsing on the reeds in the shallows.  Cattle egrets sitting atop eles backs… eles mock charging each other, tustling with tusks! Shaking their heads at us if our distance was to near for comfort.

Stopped near open floodplain area for sundowners and nibbles.

Watched sun go down once more with the Zambezi Escarpment in the background.

Back to the river bank and stepped onto the jetty, up the banking to the vehicle and drove  to camp – could have done a night drive but we all felt the cruise was the highlight of the day… and a shower was beckoning before supper.  At times, it is a treat to have time at leisure to before evening drinks round campfire, meal etc.

Delicious meal at long table chatting with other guests then early night.   Awakened during the night from time to time by the munching/crunching/rumbling tummies of hippos and elephants in camp interspersed by resounding roar of nearby lions…

Wednesday, 23 April – Ruckomechi to Lake Kariba and Matusadona National Park

Breakfast at 07h30 then away from camp (heading back to the Mana West airstrip) with our guide, Honest, who was very informative about the wildlife and trees as we drove along.  Scenery was stunning… Mana Pools has such a winning combination of scenery: Zambezi Escarpment; river, river banks and channels; variety of floodplain; thick forest and open savannah areas ringed by ilala palms, jesse bush/woodland, mopane trees, ana trees (winterthorn acacia), acacia albida (already mentioned often), croton (very invasive species), nyala berries and  combretum.  I could go on and on but am sure you get the picture!

Honest described an area where two different types of woodland meet as ECOTONE woodland e.g. miombo woodland mixing with mopane woodland provide good habitat for elephants and rhino.

Asked Honest about wildlife migration patterns and he said in April (end of rains), the large land mammals move away from the river towards the Zimbabwe escarpment.  Although we felt we’d seen plenty of elephants, the numbers increase dramatically in the dry season… June to October.

Where are the wild dogs, we asked? Ah, ha! They are denning at the moment and won’t be seen for a while.  Four zebra seen but Honest said most of the zebra are up on the Escarpment at the moment.

Arrived at the airstrip and Surprise! Surprise! There was even a ‘Loo with a View’- Wilderness don’t half spoil their guests… none of the usual frantic ‘crouching behind a bush’ hoping a lion won’t suddenly appear!!

Our ‘chariot’ Cessna (ZNW) Zulu November Whiskey duly appeared out of the clear blue empty sky and I recognised the plane ID and thought to myself…’Giles Raydor is the pilot’ … and sure enough the plane landed and Giles stepped out to greet us.  You may remember Giles flew us from Harare to Mana Main airstrip four days ago. Good to see him again and quickly loaded up and said ‘goodbye’ to Honest, boarded the plane and took off.  Honest waving to us as we rose into the sky – sad to leave Mana Pools but I’ll be back.  The same procedure is always followed when flying from an airstrip in Africa – the vehicle will wait and make sure the plane takes off safely before driving away.

Ruckomechi Camp is a Classic Wilderness Safari camp -a beautiful place in every way with well trained staff operating absolutely to the company policy.  I understand why the procedures for everything have to be strictly followed when operating a big company but it is very noticeable how ‘set’ the experience is after staying previous at the likes of Tailormade and Vundu Camps.

Coming in Part 2 – Lake Kariba and Matusadona National Park…

Scare Yourself Silly!

$
0
0

Are you an adrenalin junkie? Do you like challenging yourself in new situations? Do you like trying out new sports and exploring new places? Africa is full of amazing places for the thrill-seekers amongst you!

Canoeing:

There are lots of different places to canoe in Africa but some of the best canoeing can be found on Africa’s Great Lakes including Lake Malawi. It is a fantastic way to explore the unspoilt beaches and stunning warm water and soak up the total peace and quiet of the place. If you want a bit more excitement then you can have fun in a dug-out canoe called a mokoro on safari in Botswana exploring the waterways of the Okavango Delta. Or if that’s not enough of a thrill you can spend your time dodging hippos on the mighty Zambezi! See our Selinda Canoe Trip for a fantastic camping and canoeing safari trip.

White-water rafting and kayaking:

Some of the best Grade 5 rapids in Africa are on the Zambezi river as it pours out of the awesome Victoria Falls on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. The huge river come pounding over the wide waterfalls but then squeezes into a narrow rocky gorge giving the water immense energy and creating some world class rapids. There are plenty of companies offering rafting trips of various lengths and level of skill around Victoria Falls.  Further afield you could also tackle the infamous Horrible Horace, the Whiplash and the Four-Man-Hole – legendary rapids and cascades for white water rafting and kayaking on the Tugela in the Drakensburg Mountains of South Africa. The Orange River also in South Africa offers some fantastic rafting and kayaking hotspots too.

Bungee Jumping:

And of course we couldn’t talk about adrenalin sports in Africa without adding in bungee jumping. Also at the world famous Victoria Falls you can do one of the world’s greatest bungees over the edge of Vic Falls itself. This was one of the earliest sites for bungee jumping after New Zealand and has been a long established attraction at the Falls. You can combine a trip here with a safari or with some white water rafting as there is plenty to see and do in the vicinity. Vic Falls bungee jump is definitely classed as one of the world’s best jumps and features on many a bucket list!

Diving with Rays:

Scuba Diving is exciting at the best of times but in the protected coastal waters of Mozambique you can go diving and swimming with some extraordinary animals. Whale sharks and manta rays are one of the huge attractions of the area along with the miles of unspoilt beaches and crystal clear warm waters of Mozambique. There are many dive centres and resorts  scattered along the coast of Mozambique but the main place for diving with manta rays and whale sharks is Tofo. This is the best place in the world for seeing these amazing creatures up close but the marine life in these waters is unbelievable. With some of the best preserved coral reefs and unpolluted waters Mozambique really is a diver’s paradise. 

Surfing:

The beautiful Garden Route along South Africa’s southern coast offers incredible scenery, quaint towns, a huge variety of marine life including whales and dolphins and on top of all that some world beating surf. There are several bays along the Cape’s south coast, east of Cape Agulhas, that produce consistent surfing conditions including Stil Bay, Mossel Bay, St Francis Bay, Jeffrey’s Bay and Algoa-Port Elizabeth. It depends on the weather conditions as to which has the best surf on the day but with the right wind direction and a good swell these are world beaters. Jeffrey’s Bay is famous for its almost perfect tube and the area is home to a strong surfing community and also hosts several different international competitions.

Diving with sharks:

If surfing seems a bit tame then how about cage diving and coming face to face with a Great White  off the coast of sunny Cape Town? This is becoming more popular year by year and there are now several different operators to choose from if you are brave enough! You can also take boat rides out to see the whales and dolphins from Cape Town. We have some fantastic accommodation on offer including top of the range luxury hotels, small boutique guest houses and self-catering apartments.

Mountain Biking and Mountain Climbing:

The Drakensburg Mountains are a stunning range set in the north east of South Africa. The area is famous for its stunning scenery and it offers all sorts of mountain based adrenalin activities including mountain climbing, horse-riding, mountain-biking, quad biking, white water rafting, hiking and abseiling. Many adrenalin enthusiasts regard the Drakensberg’s rivers, mountains and tracks as the ultimate adventure destination in the world. The mountains themselves are stunningly beautiful and well worth a visit just for the landscape alone. You can see even more during a hot air balloon flight or a trip in helicopter both of which are also available here. You can hire bikes in several different locations in the area and most hotels will also arrange this for you and you can choose from following the trails yourself or taking a tour with a guide who can really take you off-trail!

Dune buggies:

Where else could you get amazing dune buggy rides than in the stunning sand dunes and deserts of Namibia? Swakopmund is home to all kinds of adrenalin sports and you can find amongst other things on offer the chance to go dune bashing in some of the most unique scenery on earth.  Some of the sand dunes are quite rightly protected as sites of special importance but there are plenty of sand dunes available for exploring on dune buggies. You can also go sky diving, hot air ballooning, boat trips to the seal colonies, sandboarding, quad biking, sport fishing and night desert walks to name but a few!

Horse Riding:

Galloping through the waterways and wide open spaces of true wilderness, Botswana offers riders an incredible experience you just cannot get in the UK. Hundreds of miles of unspoilt wildlife and scenery and not another person to be seen in any of it. No traffic, no roads, nothing to hinder you from riding free as a bird. In Botswana you can ride through the stunning Okavango Delta and enjoy a horse-back safari which is a great way to get off the beaten track and see the wildlife up close. You can also do horse-riding in many other places including across South Africa and Namibia. RAW Botswana offer terrific horseback safaris – find out more here.

So instead of moaning about the rain the next time we have a wet bank holiday why don’t you book yourself a white-knuckle ride and scare yourself silly somewhere in Africa?!

Posted by Ruth Bolton

Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park

$
0
0

Have you ever heard of a Peace Park? There are several in Africa but the biggest and most established is the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park in Southern Africa. This incredibly vast conservation area  stretches across three frontiers between Mozambique, Zimbabwe and South Africa and is home to millions of animals.

This park was set up as a peace park to join  three countries together in an effort to protect the wildlife that roams across their national boundaries and as such it is one of the most successful conservation projects on the whole of the African continent. The park actually incorporates three seperate national parks; the Kruger National Park in South Africa, the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique and the Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe and some of the areas in between.

Conservation Area:

At the moment it is in the first stage and currently it covers around 35,000 kms sq. The aim is to bring together some of the most exciting and well established wildlife areas in Southern Africa and  manage it as one single, integrated unit across three international boundaries, a tricky proposition! The next phase will to be to create a bigger transfrontier conservation area measuring almost 100,000 kms sq.  The larger transfrontier conservation area will include Banhine and Zinave national parks, the Massingir and Corumana areas and interlinking regions in Mozambique, as well as various privately and state-owned conservation areas in South Africa and Zimbabwe also bordering on the park.

Administration:

The adminstration and development of the park needs the various countries to agree unified policies and to co-operate over things such as fees and rates, border crossings, tourism strategy, conservation strategy, future funding and future development. This can only be done by running the park under a single management organisation and this has been done since 2002 when the park was finally created after years of planning.

History:

The park was originally discussed as an idea in a meeting between President Joaquim Chissano of Mozambique and the president of the World Wide Fund For Nature (South Africa) in 1990.  The 1992 Peace Accord in Mozambique and the South African democratic elections of 1994 paved the way for the political processes to proceed toward making this idea a reality. Feasibility studies initiated by the World Bank culminated in a pilot project that was launched with Global Environment Facility (GEF) funding in 1996.  Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique signed a trilateral agreement in Skukuza, South Africa on 10 November 2000. The Skukuza agreement signalled the three nations’ intent to establish and develop a transfrontier park and surrounding conservation area that, at that time, was called Gaza-Kruger-Gonarezhou. Finally, on 9 December 2002, the heads of state of Mozambique, South Africa and Zimbabwe signed an international treaty at Xai-Xai, Mozambique to establish the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park. Below is one of the first concept maps drawn up for the park in 1993.

Wildlife:

The park is important for several different reasons. It is vitally important to preserve some of the cultural sites such as the ancient cave paintings and the evidence of early man within the park.  The landscape and vegetation area are also vitally important to preserve. Of course one of the most important aspects is the conservation of the rare wildlife that lives in this area. In the GLTP there is a significant and viable populations of wild dog, white rhino and black rhino all of which are significantly endangered. Both these species are increasing steadily and increased range opportunities into Mozambique and Zimbabwe will enhance the conservation of these species and others. There are also significant populations of elephant, zebra, lion and spotted hyaena to be found in the park. As the park grows it will encompass and protect more endangered species and preserve more areas of environmental or cultural importance. It will also offer protected migration routes as most animals travel huge distances in search of either grazing or prey.

This is one of Africa’s great success stories. The park has taken a huge amount of time and effort whilst managing to overcome many hurdles on the way but it is now   a great success with plans to continue its expansion and development.

 

Posted by Ruth Bolton

 

 

 

 

 

Zimbabwe’s National Parks

$
0
0

Zimbabwe is one of Southern Africa’s undiscovered gems. It has an array of stunning scenery, pristine wilderness and incredible wildlife as well as warm, welcoming people. It is home to one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, Victoria Falls, as well as mighty rivers, mountains, forests and thousands of miles of untouched grasslands. The 10 national parks of Zimbabwe were established in order to protect these unique areas all of which are of major significance. Zimbabwe was at the forefront of developing the national park system and conservation in general and other African nations soon followed their model. The various parks all have their own character depending on their location, accessability, climate and wildlife populations.  It is worth visiting more than one to get a true idea of the range and diversity of the wonderful wildlife and scenery to be found in Zimbabwe.

Hwange National Park – this is the largest and most popular national park in Zimbabwe. It is easy to self-drive in the park and its location close to Vic Falls makes it popular with tourists. Despite its popularity it is large enough to lose the crowds and it offers excellent wildlife viewing including most of the big safari animals and the Big Five.  Hwange is famous for the large numbers of elephants that congregate round the park’s waterholes during the dry season.  Between 20,000 and 80,000 elephants congregate around the waterholes during this time.  All three of the big cats are regularly spotted and Hwange is also home to a large variety of antelopes. It is also a vital part of the preservation of one of Africa’s most endangered animals the African wild dog who have breeding colonies at Hwange. The park is situated on the eastern edge of the vast Kalahari desert so is mainly made up of sand and scrubland but you can also find teak forest and mopane woodland. We have lots of places to stay at Hwange including Camp Hwange.

Matusadona National Park – this beautiful park is found on the shores of Lake Kariba. It offers excellent wildlife viewing including all of the Big Five. Especially important are the groups of both white and black rhino and this is also where you will find the largest concentration of lions in Zimbabwe. Elephant and buffalo are also abundant in this area and Lake Kariba is home to many hippos and crocodiles. It is a great place for canoeing, birding and walking safaris and it is a great place for those wishing to get off the beaten track to a remote location. If you want to watch the sun setting over the lake with the Matusadona Mountains as the backdrop then this is the place for you! We have a choice of fantastic places to stay on the shores of Lake Kariba including Musango Safari Camp.

Mana Pools National Park – as its name suggests this is a watery wildlife area consisting of 4 main pools and several smaller pools on the floodplains of the Zambezi River. The landscape here includes lots of small islands and sandbanks bordered by lush forest, and also the sharp cliffs of the Zambezi escarpment. This unique riverine habitat and wildlife have been protected as a pristine wilderness and are now also recognised and further protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This park is best explored by canoe or on foot as there are few roads and it really is a true wilderness. This is for those who are looking for a safari with a difference and those who like really getting out of the car and into the African bush themselves.  If you are a keen fisherman, canoer or birder then this is the place for you. There are no rhino to be found here but the other four of Big Five are all here. You should see the Big Cats as well as large herds of elephants and of course large numbers of hippos and crocodiles. There are also colonies of rare African wild dog to be found here. If you want to stay here you can choose from a variety of camps including Mana Pools Tented Camp.

Victoria Falls /Zambezi National Park – this is one of the smallest but one of the most scenic national parks. Close to the spectacular Victoria Falls it can be visited as a day trip for those based at Victoria Falls so it is good for those with families, those not wishing to go on a full safari or those not wishing to go too far off the beaten track. The mighty Zambezi runs through the heart of the park providing lots of great scenery and picnic opportunities.  This park cannot be compared to some of the larger National Parks as it is much smaller and has far fewer species. You are only likely to spot elephant and buffalo who are prevalent in the park as are crocodiles and hippos. The park is home to rarer species like lion and wild dog but you are very unlikely to spot any. We have a range of hotels in and around Victoria Falls but if you are looking for a safari camp then Elephant Camp is the place for you.

  Matobo – this national park is famous for its incredible scenery which offers the unique sight of enormous granite rocks piled high on top of each other towering high above the plains. Like other sites in Zimbabwe (Greater Zimbabwe etc.) this park is also home to their ancient civilisation and there are several well-preserved bushman rock-art sites that you can visit here. There is a good amount of wildlife in the park although no lion or elephant but white rhino is spotted quite regularly. This park is also the best place to see leopard as it is home Africa’s largest density of this elusive big cat. They are really at home in this rocky landscape with plenty of place to hunt, climb and hide.  It is good for self-drive safaris as small and has roads.

Chizarira – this national park is very remote and fairly inaccessible which means there are only a few visitors at any one time. The camps here are remote, the environment is untouched and you will ge to experience the true African wilderness. You should be able to see the Big Five apart from rhino. There are plenty of elephant, buffalo, antelope and a variety of predators including lion, leopard and spotted hyenas. Walking safaris are a big part of the experience here and the scenery is stunning as it is dominated by the rugged and dramatic Zambezi escarpment. The park actually covers 7 different ecological zones from low veld valley savannah to high veld broadleaf woodland.

Gonarezhou- this a huge park (5000 kms2) which is actually part of greater a trans-national wildlife preservation area called the Great Limpopo Trans-frontier Park.  This Trans-frontier Park is also made up of Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park and South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Altogether they make up a vast wilderness area which allows the wildlife to cross national boundaries whilst still being protected. It is a vast area so the density of animals is not strong but there is a huge range of wildlife to be found here including the Big Five. You will also rarely see anyone else out on your game drives. Walking safaris are fantastic here and it is really the chance to experience the untamed bush in all its glory that make this park worth visiting.

Nyanga– this is not a major park for wildlife and safaris in general. The main attraction instead lies in the beautiful scenery, hiking and some interesting rock art and archaeological sites. Nyanga is also one of Zimbabwe’s top birding hotspots. There are over 300 species and there are several near-endemic species to be found here. The park is also part of the globally important Eastern Zimbabwe Mountains Endemic Bird Area (EBA).

Chimanimani– this scenic park is one of Zimbabwe’s finest mountain wilderness areas and a very popular hiking destination. The mountain range lies on the Zim/Mozambique border and the tallest peak is almost 2,500m.  Close to the town are the famous waterfalls, Bridal Veil Falls.  The wildlife is not so important here but it is the landscape and scenery that is protected here.  The park includes the Chirinda Forest, Africa’s southernmost tropical rainforest and home to rare species of plants and trees including the 1,000-year-old Big Tree at nearly 70m tall and 16m in diameter.

Kazuma– this park lies on the border with Botswana and is home to savannah grasslands. There are also a series of seasonally flooded pans in the south-west of the park that provide food and water for lots of birdlife and other wildlife.

Our team at Real Africa have visited many of the main national parks in Zimbabwe and have checked out all the accommodation options in each area so if you would like to find out more then give us a call.

Posted by Ruth Bolton

 

 

Ancient Africa And Where To Find It

$
0
0

Most people go to Southern and Eastern Africa for the wildlife and scenery but actually it is a fantastic destination for those looking for a bit of history. After all Africa is the cradle of civilisation and the place were mankind was first discovered. There are many fantastic sites where you can see evidence of ancient times; from rock art to ruined cities, from fossilised remains to ancient living tribes there is something for everyone even remotely interested in Africa’s epic and important history.

Ethiopia – Axum, Lalibela and Gondar

Ethiopia is one of the most historically and religiously significant places in the world with an exciting past that is still very much evident today. Those who visit Ethiopia are stunned by the vast number of holy sites which have amazingly survived pretty much intact. If you wish to visit the most important historic sites of Ethiopia then you should definitely include Lalibela, perhaps the most famous of them all. This site is home to 12 monolithic or rock-hewn churches including the Church of St George. How they managed to carve these churches from underground and the rock face itself back in the 13th century is just mind boggling.

In Axum (Aksum), an ancient capital of Ethiopia and home to the Kings, you can find the basilic Church of our Lady Mary of Zion. This is believed to be the home of the Ark of the Covenant that Moses carried with him during the Great Exodus. No one is allowed access to it for fear of the dire biblical warnings associated with the Ark so many religious scholars doubt that the Ark is really there. There is plenty more to explore in Axum as there are many stelae or obelisks dating back 1700 years and historic royal palaces; a relic of the time when Axum was the capital of Ethiopia (from 400BC – 1000AD).

Also worth a visit is Gondar which was once the ancient capital city of both the Ethiopian Empire and the later Begemder Province. Gondar is home to many important remains including several royal castles, including Fasilides’ castle, Iyasu’s palace, Dawit’s Hall, a banqueting hall, stables, Empress Mentewab’s castle, a chancellery, library and three churches. Near the city lie Fasilides’ Bath, home to an annual ceremony where it is blessed and then opened for bathing; the Qusquam complex, built by Empress Mentewab; the eighteenth century Ras Mikael Sehul’s Palace and the Debre Berhan Selassie Church.

There is so much history to explore in Ethiopia that you need a good couple of weeks to get the most from your tour. We have several different tours in Ethiopia that include the most important sites.

South Africa – Rock Art in the Drakensburg

South Africa is an incredibly rich source of cave paintings and one of the best areas to see many of them in in Kwazulu Natal in the stunningly beautiful Drakensberg Mountains. The area is now protected as a Unesco World Heritage Site. The San people (also known as Bushman) created beautiful rock paintings and engravings which you can see all around this area. There are over 40,000 of them in this area alone so they were pretty prolific! There are various walking tours that take you to sites that are close together and these trails usually have an information centre where you can learn more about them or hire a guide to show you around. We have a great range of beautiful accommodation in the Drakensberg Mountains including Cathedral  Peak and Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse and some great South Africa self drive tours that pass through the Drakensberg.

The Kamberg San Rock Art Trail is incredible and includes such sites as the Game Pass Shelter.  The San paintings are now national monuments protected by law but were first discovered back in the early 1900s.  At first they were thought to be simple depictions of daily life such as hunting but nowadays experts believe that the artwork is actually made up of mystical images that were seen by shamans whilst in a trance.  Among the most accessible of the many Drakensberg rock art sites is the open-air Bushman Cave Museum in the Giant’s Castle Reserve, established in 1903 and run by KwaZulu-Natal Nature Conservation. A short walk takes you to the cave, which features 500 rock paintings, some of which are estimated to be around 800 years old. However if you are a fit and adventurous hiker you can take yourself off to more remote trails where you will be able to discover caves on your own!

Tanzania – Olduvai (Oldupai) Gorge

Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania is actually one of the most important paleo-anthropological sites in the whole world and you can visit it on one of our Tanzania safari holidays.  You can visit en route to the Ngorongoro Crater. This site was part of a scientific discovery that rocked the scientific world.  It allowed scientists to date early mankind for the first time as it was here that remains were found from millions of years ago. Olduvai turned out to have been occupied by Homo Habilis 1.9 million years ago,  Paranthropus Boisei 1.8 million years ago, and Homo Erectus 1.2 million years ago.  Modern mankind known as Homo Sapiens is dated to have occupied the site 17,000 years ago.

Louis and Mary Leakey were the paleo-archaeologists responsible for most of the excavations and discoveries of fossils in Olduvai Gorge and their family have since continued their work and even today scientists are still continuing to discover important finds in the area. The Leakeys were firm believers in Darwin’s theory of evolution and were sure that early man had lived in the area. They followed other scientists finds but it was their discovery of a homonid skull that meant Tanzania was truly the origin of mankind. In 1959, Mary found remains of the robust australopithecine Zinjanthropus boisei (now known as Paranthropus boisei) which has been one of the major scientific discoveries of all time. This is because the age of the skeleton was put at  1.75 million years and this dramatically changed what had been the previously estimated time scale of human evolution.

Zimbabwe – Great Zimbabwe

The Great Zimbabwe ruins are the largest collection of ruins in Africa south of the Sahara such as Libya, Egypt and Morocco. Located in Zimbabwe between the Zambezi and Limpopo Rivers, the ruins are remains of an ancient culture of great wealth and impressive architectural skills. Built between the 11th and 15th centuries, Great Zimbabwe was home to a cattle-herding people who also became adept at metal-working. The ruins are the largest of their kind on the Zimbabwe Plateau, but they are by no means unique. There are lots of much smaller sites across Zimbabwe and as far as Mozambique. Great Zimbabwe is impressive as it was once home to up to 20, 000 people in its heyday. The remains are made up of granite walls – embellished with turrets, towers, platforms and elegantly sculpted stairways which show a huge amount of skill and expertise in architecture and engineering for such an early civilisation. Although the site was ransacked by European explorers and treasure hunters it is still an incredible place to visit and well worth a visit. It can be combined with a tour of Southern Africa or a safari in Zimbabwe. So important are the ruins to the nation that the country actually took its name from the Shona word for ruins, ” Zimbabwe”.

Posted by Ruth Bolton

 

 

Lily in Zimbabwe Part 2: Lake Kariba and Hwange

$
0
0

My first though; Lake Kariba is simply stunning with its islands and sandy shores.

Flying  to Kariba, just a 90 minute journey, saves the 468 kilometre, 5 hour road journey from Harare and is worth every penny for its scenic qualities and sheer convenience.

Lake Kariba and Matusadona National Park

Zimbabwe’s northern border is formed by the Zambezi River which is dammed at Kariba to form the vast artificial  Lake Kariba which was built to harness electricity to feed industry in Zimbabwe and Zambia.  The dam when it was built in 1957-1959 (by an Italian company) was the largest in the world and still today its size and strength remain awesome.  But it wasn’t built without cost to humans from various accidents to heatstroke and the tragic loss of 18 workers who fell into wet concrete during construction.

The greatest tragedy attributed to the building the dam is the uprooting of the Batonga tribe from their ancestral home in the Gwembe section of the Zambezi Valley.  These people had lived here for centuries, making a living from farming and fishing as well as being adept at wood carving, bead work and basket work with their own particular style.  The removal of the Batonga created considerable anguish abroad (not to mention among the people themselves).  Anthropologists rushed to amass details of Batonga society before everything changed.  In 1959, when the last lorry – piled high with evicted villagers and belongings – was on the point of departure from the doomed valley, a small green bush was tied to the vehicle’s tailboard to trail along behind. The villagers explained this was to allow their ancestral guardian spirit to ride until they reached their new home.  It was essential that this spirit remained on the ground during the journey for it to settle comfortably into its new surroundings and maintain a relationship with the ancestors.

The Batonga were removed to a very poor place.

Little of this heritage seems to have found its way back to enrich the Batonga today.  The people no longer engage in bead work because they can’t afford to buy the imported beads.  Many heirlooms have been sold off including beautiful stools and carved hut doors to raise money for the next meal.

The completion of the Kariba Dam Wall in 1958, towering 128m high and 579m across,  had an immediate and drastic effect on the Zambezi Valley.  As soon as the sluice gates were closed, the river level rose and burst its banks.  With rapidly rising waters came a number of serious problems.  The animals living in the valley had not been removed and suddenly became trapped on hilltops which were quickly shrinking into small islands or drowning when low lying land was flooded.  Wildlife rescue seemed to be an afterthought and at the last minute, three men from the Southern Rhodesian Game Department were tasked with ‘taking any measures necessary to save animals from the floods’.  Thus Rupert Fothergill and a team of 10 men set out on rafts with make shift nets, harnesses and catching poles, and a limited supply of tranquilisers and resources to save the wildlife from the ever increasing expanse of water.

Operation Noah is truly the stuff of legends.  Dead barbell and tiger fish were found floating in the rising lake, bloated to bursting from gorging themselves on the swarms of insects driven from the saturated ground.  Birds lost successive broods of chicks as the waters forced them to rebuild their nests in high branches.  The drowned trees were festooned with snakes, moneys and leopards.  Mats of floating vegetation seethed with scorpions.  Mountains became peninsulars and hilltops ever-shrinking islands crowded with game.

The larger animals found swimming in the lake were herded towards shore, or secured to sides of boats with ropes if they showed signs of distress.

To capture the deadly black mamba, the wardens use a fishing rod adapted to pull a noose around the snake’s neck; the snakes is then gingerly deposited into a pillowcase.  Dassies (shrill voiced, rabbity creatures and porcupines are deliberately driven into the water since, despite their small size, dassies bite when cornered and porcupines have quills.  Even in water, it takes ‘three mean to outwit a porcupine’.

Over the next five years, Fothergill and his team managed to save over 5,000 animals, which included 1,866 impala, 585 warthog, 23 elephant and 6 scaly ant eaters. Many of these animals were released in a beautiful area on the lake edge now known as Matusadona National Park.

Nearly 5200 square kilometres of wilderness died with the valley.  Desolate trees, still poking branches from the water, over fifty years later, bear vivid testimony to the destruction.  But a new ecology has replaced the old in a turn of events that show the resilience of the natural world.  Fish eagles and African darter colonies nest in the branches and the decaying wood feeds underwater life.

Fishing attracts many people to the lake particularly for the fierce tigerfish with their razor sharp teeth.  They have great fighting ability, making determined rushes followed by an impressive leap from the water to shake the hook.

Fothergill Island

Back to our arrival on Fothergill Island.  We were met by Simon, a very experienced fellow in the safari industry, born and bred in Zimbabwe. Part of the management team at  Changa Camp set on the shores of Lake Kariba where we were due to stay for the next two nights.  Simon and Saiide, the boatman, made us feel instantly at home as we loaded the luggage into the Bazooka boat, made in UK.  Fast ride on the lake passing Spurwing Island where I stayed 20 years ago.  Wildlife viewing included an elephant watching us from a promontory with impala playing in the shallows.

Twenty five minutes later we arrived at Changa Camp.  This is a recently built camp on a private concession with 4.5 kilometres of lake shore.

The rich wilderness area offers exceptional game drives as well as walking and fishing safaris, all in the company of highly trained professional guides. Healthy populations of predators, including lion, leopard, hyena and cheetah as well as elephant, buffalo and antelope frequent the shoreline. Hippos and crocodiles are abundant in the cool waters. If  you are very lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the last remaining Black Rhinos. Birdlife is prolific, with 350 species having been identified in the area.

I will mention at this stage about Simon who’s positive outlook is classic of the general feeling in Zimbabwe and proves why this country has such a bright future after its catastrophic recent years.  Zimbabweans are definitely a ‘pick yourself up, shake yourself off’ breed. 

So often we heard about safari camps who had struggled to keep open on a shoe string.. owners going to South Africa or elsewhere for instance to earn money to send back to finance the camp.  The philosophy of ‘not closing, keep open and all will come right in the end’ is proving correct.

Lulled to sleep by the honking of hippos just yards away on the lake shore.

Friday, 26th April,  at 0545, coffee and biscuits in mess tent then off on game drive with guide Kingsley and another guest called, Rudi, a very thin German gentleman of advanced years.  Left camp at 0645 and drove about 45 minutes (meeting about 12 elephants on the way) to an open area where we left the vehicle and set off on foot (Kingsley armed with rifle).

Walked for about 2.5 hours and the most threatening mammal we saw were two impalas which suited me fine.  Gone are the days when I thought it would be such fun to have an elephant , buffalo or lion encounter!

However, the bird life was very varied e.g. golden oriole, marabou stork, fork tailed drongo, fish eagle, lilac breasted roller, African darter, eagle owl, grey and red hornbill, bateleur eagle, Namaqua dove, white fronted bee eaters.

We stopped for coffee and cookies about 1000 and I asked Kingsley why we had seen no herds of buffalo (nyati) or big prides of lion that I remembered from my previous visit to Kariba (Spurwing Island) in 1994.  He told me it was all to do with the rising level of the Lake which drowned the grazing areas for the big herds of buffalo.  The buffalo in their weakened state were easily picked off by the strong lion prides then when the buffalo had dwindled the lions had to move to new areas in the Matusadona.

Tasty buffet lunch shared with Simon then relaxed until afternoon activity after tea and cake.

Our afternoon activity was quite memorable… again! We took the Bazooka speed boat across to the Sanyati Gorge which branches off Lake Kariba.

This area of course was flooded in the late 50’s along with several villages now lying submerged beneath the dark waters.

Fascinating sailing up the steep sides gorge decorated with African chestnut trees with white trunks and displaying their beautiful yellow flowers. Occasionally drifting to the sides and on one occasion we saw a well disguised elephant amongst the foliage watching us watch him.  His trunk had been damaged in some way, even shortened but seemed to be healing and it didn’t affect his ability to pick up tasty bites from the trees or ground.  Also saw guinea fowl scampering about as they so often do later in the day.

We motored up the gorge for about an hour, then had sundowners.  I felt all the time we were being watched … maybe the spirits of the flooded villages??

On the way back down the brooding gorge, the light was fading fast but as we burst back onto the Lake the sun was still shining albeit rather muted with sunset approaching.

We speeded back across the lake to Changa Camp.

Freshened up for supper and when we arrived back at the mess area, we found that supper was to be enjoyed on the beach (where we’d see the elephants last night).  There was a long table set up for all the guests with lanterns lighting up the welcoming scene.  We enjoyed a braai with various meats included sirloin steak … all delicious.  Lively dinner chat.. but no word from the eles tonight.

Simon brought out his guitar after supper and serenaded us as we sat round the beach camp fire.  Quite quickly we realised he could sing and play just about any request..  was quite a surreal situation singing folk songs in the moonlight on the shores of Lake Kariba!  All boded well for a good night’s sleep.

Saturday, 27th April, (Kariba to Hwange) 0700, breakfast then said our goodbye’s to Changa Camp and its special people. Down to the jetty and loaded into the speed boat (Bazooka) and whisked across the lake with Simon and Saaide to Fothergill Island and the airstrip.

Our Cessna 205 with pilots Barry and Karl arrived as promised – and off we flew taking 1.5 hours to reach Hwange Main airstrip.

We were greeted on arrival by David Carson, part owner of Camp Hwange in Hwange National Park.  David is a very experienced ZimPro guide who has been running mobile and safari operations for many years.  We found out just how experienced he is in the next 24 hours.

David loaded us into the open top safari vehicle and warned us it would be cool so ‘wrap up well’ and I was very pleased I’d brought my scarf, Andean hat with ear flaps and gloves.

Road very good and maintained well which was surprising given the history of the Park over the troubled years.  David said somehow the money had been found for the upkeep of roads in Zimbabwe although the municipal roads were in a poorer state.

Stopped at National Park barrier by two stern looking lady park officials who gave the vehicle keen scrutiny then arrived at Hwange National Park Headquarters where park fees, paperwork had to be completed.

Pleasant place with relaxed feel.

Wandered around and found a bit of history of Hwange which is interesting to record and set the scene for where we would spend the next 4 days exploring the different areas of the Park and environs.

Hwange National Park

Hwange National Park is the largest national park in Zimbabwe and covers 14,650 square kilometres, about the size of Belgium.. larger than all of Zimbabwe’s other national parks put together.  It is less than two hours’ drive southwast of Victoria Falls and makes a popular add-on safari from the Falls.  Driving from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, travellers will pass the main turn-off to the gate and is very convenient to make a stop there for safari.

The Park was the royal national hunting grounds of the Ndebele warrior king, Mzilikazi in the early 19th century and was set aside as a national park in 1929.

It was declared by the Rhodesian government as one of the last retreats for game animals not threatened by human encroachment.  Additionally because of the presence of tsetse fly (which kills cows) the land couldn’t be commercially farmed.  The first warden was Ted Davison who held the job for 33 years and developed the roads, camps and boreholes.

The town of Hwange was founded in 1899 when coal was discovered and is located just outside the National Park. The ‘village’ grew to accommodate mine workers and today Hwange Colliery is the biggest coal mine in Zimbabwe, producing over 5 million tons of coal per year..

Hwange boasts a tremendous variety of wildlife with over 100 species of mammal and nearly 400 bird species.  The elephants of Hwange are famous and the park’s elephant population is one of the largest n the world, though they migrate to and from Chobe National Park in Botswana depending on the season and estimates of their number range from 20,000 to 75,000.

Although when we stopped to look at a point of flora or fauna interest, the sun beat down. Marvelled at the teak forests by roadside, very green as they have long roots which go down to the water table.  Other sightings were male kudu and giraffe (Southern).  He was a constant source of entertaining information as we drove first to the Park Headquarters to ‘check in’ and then on through the Park to Camp Hwange in the eastern Sinamatella area, journey time in all two hours. Various sightings on the way to camp i.e. elephants, bateleur eagle (or brown snake eagle), purple roller, crowned crane, saddlebill stork, secretary birds, cape teals, and in the floral kingdom I would like to mention two unusual (for me) sightings of African lilies and Gardenia trees (much liked by giraffes).

We arrived at Camp Hwange to a very warm welcome from Sylvie, Andy and their team  – probably because everyone was waiting to eat lunch and our late arrival was holding up hungry appetites!  Large and spacious thatch roofed mess area with dining area (long table where all guests eat together) and comfortable lounge area.  Stylishly furnished a la African chic, with camp fire area in front with waterhole and hide in the background.

Shown to our chalet/tent by Sylvie Pons from France, old Africa hand and part owner of Camp Hwange who told us all about the building of the camp and furnishing the tents etc.  There are 8 large canvas walled en suite chalets positioned to overlook the waterhole.

There is a unique log pile hide in the shade near the waterhole where camp guests can visit escorted by one of the guide’s so that you may have a close up view of all the ‘visitors’ coming to drink and carry out their ablutions.

Each tent is furnished with stylish simplicity and en suite facilities. No internet at camp.

What struck me was the great enthusiasm and pride in Camp Hwange from everyone we met beginning with David Carson’s at the airstrip.

Quick but delicious lunch then we prepared to go out with David on a game experience combining a game drive with a game walk tracking elephants!

What we were quickly coming to realise is that Camp Hwange is really all about is the wilderness experience and getting out amongst it!.. and this is what we were about to do only we didn’t realise how close we would get to the wilderness experience!

The emphasis is on flexible, knowledgeable and charismatic guiding all in comfortable surroundings. 

Cup of tea and cake around 1600 then David loaded Marie Aud, Gabrielle, Jean and I onto the game drive vehicle.  Drove about 25 minutes to open area where David parked in the shade of an ebony tree.  Now we were about to embark on a game walk and find out why David Parsons is one of the best guides in Zimbabwe (in same strata as veterans like John Stevens and Stretch Ferrera).  He gave us the all important safety talk which comes down to doing exactly as he says if dangerous game is encountered i.e. don’t run! Told how to walk quietly … heel then toe, follow his example at all times.  I had a light rucksack which held water, JVC footage camera, Canon SLR with 75 – 350 mm and 28 – 75mm lenses.

The late afternoon light was golden and the sky very blue.  The terrain was open with some shrubs dotted about.

David pointed out elephant in the distance and we stopped.  He spoke in a whisper explaining that it was likely we would find elephants in a dried out river bed to the left… He kept checking the wind direction and confirmed that the wind although very little was blowing away from us and we would be fine as long as we kept upwind from the elies.  They have acute sense of smell and it was very important that they should not be aware of our presence or they would scarper.  I guessed this must be a regular pattern at this time of day when animals were on their way to the main waterholes to drink.

We walked in line very quietly (heel .. toe) towards the banking above the river bed then David dropped into crouching position then sitting position.  Shuffled on our ‘derrieres’ to the edge of the banking and there was the unforgettable sight of eight bull elephants of varying ages, totally relaxed, spread out along the river bed.  Some were digging for water, others just standing enjoying the peace and quiet of the end of the day.  The early evening light was perfect for photography and I got some very interesting footage, not easy when I was trying to be as quiet as possible!  Every time I moved, dried out autumnal leaves crackled and I was sure the pachyderms with their keen ears would be alerted to our presence.

We were all feeling so lucky to be only a few yards from the beasts who appeared totally unaware of us when suddenly a spat broke out between two of the group.and the weaker elephant ran up the banking a few yards from where we were sitting.  Despite David’s earlier instructions, we all went into what I would call ‘half meerkat position’ getting ready to run!!  Whoa – Ho! the Real Africa JVC camera which I have always guarded with my life, fell to the ground (sorry Rob..fortunately only a few inches onto the dry leaves) and I was rapidly wondering what I could live without if a tree had to be climbed!

Ridiculous really but a natural instinct.  The ele hesitated at the top of the banking which seemed forever with us wondering if he would turn left or right.  We would have been in a delicate position if he’d decided to turn left… although David had a powerful.458 rifle under his arm and would no doubt have fired first a warning shot if the bull elephant has come towards us.

We all breathed a sigh of relief when he turned right and ambled away along the banking.

We headed back to the vehicle in the rapidly decreasing evening light and drove towards a nearby man made water hole.  Suddenly, a lioness came out of the bush in a front of us and lazily crossed the road – David braked abruptly (and I nearly went flying onto the bonnet of the Land Cruiser!).  David became very excited as he was sure this was a well known lioness who had cubs on the other side of the waterhole.

We drove speedily up the track to the look out point and hide overlooking down over the Masuma waterhole.  By this time, the lioness was quietly walking around the banking and the game including two waterbuck had gone into instant ‘statue mode’ and were watching the predator as she nonchalantly walked past them just a few yards away.

Eventually she went out of sight and we could settle down to watch at leisure the tranquil evening scene below us.  A group of elies were at a smaller waterhole a few yards behind the big waterhole for some reason preferring this area.  The evening light washed the bush and wildlife in an ethereal glow and I felt how lucky we were to witness this peaceful scene.  Hippos were honking down below and the sun was slowing sinking below the horizon as we, also quite lazily, drank our gin and tonics!

Back to camp and drinks round the camp fire.  Chatting to other guests, three of whom has just arrived from New Caledonia in the South Pacific – what a journey coming half way round the world and a ten hour time difference!

Lively supper around the ‘long mess table’ with guests from NC, USA, France and England.  Probably one of the best safari suppers I have ever experienced with such a good feeling of ‘aliveness and well being’ throughout.  Oh, and the food we very good too!!

To bed with hot water bottles which felt very snug underneath our duvets.  The night was cold so good to be tucked up well.

Sunday, 28th April, 2013, up at 0545, cup of coffee and biscuit in the mess tent then loaded up for game drive tracking the endangered African painted (or wild) dog.  David was determined we would find the pack and although we saw a lot of tracks, we didn’t see any of these endangered animals.  But the amazing thing was, we felt we had seen them such was David’s enthusiasm and passion.  Even the Painted Dog Conservation team headed by Dr Greg Rasmuissen (based just outside the National Park Gates) were looking for them in their Land Rover but the pack ( had gone off deep into the bush and were definitely not going to ‘say hello’ that morning.  Birds seen on the drive included pearl spotted ow, cape teals, jacana and knob headed coot.

Back to camp for bacon sandwiches… again running late but it is one of Camp Hwange’s rules that there are ‘no rules’ and ‘no time restrictions’.

Camp Hwange has a private concession of 6,000 acres bordering the northern side of Hwange National Park hence plenty of space to offer guests for game drives and walks which is one its specialities.

Left camp with David and headed back to Hwange Main Gate where we met Janice, the manager of Ivory Lodge. Sad farewells to David Carson and off we went with Janice.  Stopped at the Painted Dog Conservation Centre and had very interesting visit.

Don’t miss the next instalment featuring Bulawayo, Matobo Hills and Great Zimbabwe…

Fishing Holidays in Africa

$
0
0

Did you know that fishing not football is the most popular pastime in the UK? No I didn’t either although my brother in law is a keen angler. Fishing holidays are also growing in popularity and Africa is one of the best places to go. You get the chance to catch some really huge and exciting fish and relax in some beautiful scenery. You can also combine it with a safari and get the best of both worlds. Also the safari or beach option might please a non-fishing partner! With so much to choose from we have narrowed it down with some ideas below.

Botswana

One of the best places for a fishing holiday is Botswana and in particular the Okavango Delta. This huge inland river delta covers hundreds of miles and surprisingly doesn’t run into the sea but evaporates and disappears into the land. There are permanent lagoons and rivers but during the rains the area covered by water increases enormously. Fishing is available at most of the lodges on the Delta. We have several lovely luxury safari lodges and camps where all the game viewing is done by motorboat or mokoro (a dug-out canoe) and fishing is also widely available.  A day spent drifting through the reed beds passing big game and stunning birds whilst you fish is pretty unbeatable!

In the crystal clear waters of the Okavango River you can fish for tigerfish, tilapia, bream, nembwe and African pike. The tigerfish is an indigenous with an enormous appetite and they can grow up to 9 kilos in weight! The best time to fish for tiger fish is during the annual catfish or barbel runs. This is usually in our autumn from late August to the beginning of November. Bream fishing is usually best during our summer months, from April until August. We recommend staying at Camp Okavango  for excellent fishing. The lodges and camps can provide all the fishing equipment you need but you can take your own kit if you prefer.

Mozambique

Mozambique is a huge country stretching along the east coast of Africa from Tanzania to the north down to South Africa in the south. It offers a massive variety of habitats from the Zambezi River to the shores of Lake Malawi, from national parks filled with the Big Five to lush mangrove swamps and islands dotted off the stunning coastline.  However the main type of fishing done in Mozambique is  sea or sport fishing and the island archipelagos and coral reefs are outstanding here. Marine life includes whales, dolphins, manta rays, turtles and sharks. The Mozambique coastline, particularly the Bazaruto and the Quirimbas Archipelagos, offers some of the most spectacular sport fishing in the world.  This part of the Indian Ocean is a protected marine reserve meaning it is unspoiled and pretty undiscovered which makes it ideal for a luxury fishing holiday.  Combine this with some truly stunning hotel and beach resorts and some of the world’s finest beaches and Mozambique is a dream destination.

The deep Mozambique Channel has a very strong current and it provides a home to some of the world’s most exciting sport fish.  Species such as black, blue and striped marlin, sailfish, shortbill spearfish, wahoo, dorado, various tuna species, king and queen mackerel, kingfish (jack’s), queenfish, barracuda and snappers are all  to be found here. Again there is plenty to do if you are travelling with a partner or friend who isn’t into fishing as there are plenty of fabulous beaches, scuba diving, snorkelling, sailing, boat trips and luxury lodges to relax in such as Ibo Island Lodge . The boat operators provide all the gear you will need for sport fishing and we can pre-book it for you or you can do it when you are there through the hotel concierge.

Malawi

Lake Malawi is another fabulous fishing destination for the keen angler and it is also popular for those who want to go diving and see the endemic fish species that live in this enormous inland sea.  Again like all our destinations the scenery as well as the wildlife is fantastic and we have some fabulous lodges and beach resorts dotted along the shores of the Lake. The water here is crystal clear, unpolluted and wonderfully warm and there are many sandy beach, islands and rocky coves providing plenty of different habitats.

The majority of the 400+ species in Lake Malawi are small tropical aquarium fish, mbuna. However you can also find sungwa (perch), ngumbo (lake yellow-fish), mpasa (lake salmon), sanjika (smaller relative of lake salmon), ncheni (lake tiger), kampango (catfish) and vundu (catfish). Fishing is year round but probably the best time to go is between September and April.  One of the best places to stay on the lake is Pumulani Lodge.  although there are more rustic options available too.

Although Lake Malawi is the main draw you can also do plenty of fantastic river fishing. The Bua River, running through the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, is excellent for salmon with the Luweya, Lufira and North Rukuru not far behind. In the Lower Shire River, below the Kapichira Falls on the southern boundary of the Majete Wildlife Reserve, tigerfish are abundant, joined further down by vundu and barbel as the river broadens. Heavier tackle and a boat are needed here. Dry season fishing between May and November is possible in the Lower Shire river and requires no licence. The streams and dams of Zomba Plateau, Mount Mulanje and Nyika Plateau are well stocked with rainbow trout. You are only allowed to do fly fishing in this area with flies tied on single hooks. The season runs from September to April. Please note you will have to take your own kit with you in most places although some lodges do provide good tackle. Please check with us first before travel.

Zimbabwe and Zambia

Lake Kariba and the Zambezi River are the main highlights for a fisherman. The Zambezi River is the fourth largest river in Africa and is home to one of the continent’s most sought-after fresh water game fish such as the tiger fish. The tigerfish is an aggressive predator and  one of the fastest freshwater game fish in Africa which makes it a challenging species to catch and a great challenge for fly fisherman. Trying to lure the fierce tiger fish can be a real batlle as it usually puts on a dramatic display of fight when captured. Both the Upper Zambezi – the section of river above the Victoria Falls – and the Lower Zambezi – the section below the Kariba Dam wall – offer excellent opportunities to fish for tigerfish.

There are a number of excellent fishing lodges on the banks of both the upper and lower sections of the Zambezi and also there is a  huge range of wonderful safari lodges that offer fishing as well as game drives looking for the Big Five. Many of these lodges provide a range of fishing activities, all the way from a novice angler to the professional fly fisherman.  As fishing can be combined with game activities  and wonderful safaris this is a great holiday if you have a partner or friend who does not wish to fish as there is plenty to do and the lodge are all great places for relax with swimming pools and sundecks. For the visiting angler most can provide a full range of equipment is provided but you can take your own tackle if you prefer (please check before you travel!). We can recommend staying at various different lodges such as Mana Pools Camp many of which offer fishing along with safari activities and canoeing.

Some itineraries which feature our favourite fishing destinations include:

Desert and Delta Safari in Botswana

Tailormade Mozambique

Malawi – Valley and Lake Holiday

Best of Zimbabwe

But please note that we tailor-make all our holidays to suit you so if you want a purely fishing holiday then please give us a call and we can create one specially for you!

Posted by Ruth Bolton


VIDEO: The Flight of Angels, Victoria Falls

$
0
0

Victoria Falls is one of the seven Natural Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The massive Zambezi River falls over 108  metres (360 ft), with over 1,050 cubic metres of water per second racing over its lip when its in full flood. When visiting, from either the Zimbabwean or Zambian sites, its often hard to get a grasp on the scale of it. Vast clouds of spray rise up, soaking you in seconds and hiding areas of the Falls in mist.

With a total width of 1,706 metres (5,604 Ft) spread out in a large arc, its also impossible to get a vantage point from where it’s all visible. After the Falls, the river runs off in a deep cut canyon, racing away through a series of fast-moving rapids. From the ground you can only look from certain vantage points, like the iron bridge that links the two countries, completed in 1905, but get no idea of its course, how it twists and turns as it runs away.

A great way to see the Falls is on the Flight of Angels, a 10 minute helicopter. It gives a perspective of the vastness of the African landscape, the size of the Zambezi as it heads to the Falls, the amount of spray produced and a birds-eye perspective of the Zambezi gorges as they channel the water away.

Many of our clients who visit the Falls do the flight and love it. As well as great views its also exhilarating. This video was taken by Lily, one of our Senior African Consultants. We’ve left it unedited, running from lift-off to landing. You will see in the video that the helicopter circles the Falls twice, ensuring that whichever side of the helicopter you are on, you get a great view of the Falls in one direction, and views of the river, gorge, and Victoria Falls town on the other.

Top 10 Wild Gifts for Christmas

$
0
0

There’re  just 10 days to go till Christmas Day. Are you stuck for gift ideas? Here’s our Top 10 Wild Christmas gifts for that ‘hard to buy for’ person in your life.

1.Spend time with the relations – Gorilla trekking permit, from US $600 (Uganda) to US $750 (Rwanda)

  • Find out more about gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda here.
  • See sample gorilla trekking safari holidays here.
  • Read Lily’s account of gorilla trekking here.

2.Mistletoe moment – fall in love with Africa and give a subscription to Travel Africa, the world’s only magazine dedicated to exploring Africa, from £15. Check out their subscription offers here.

3.Cloud Nine Experience – take to the skies at sunrise with a hot air balloon safari, complete with champagne breakfast from £325  (available in the Masai Mara, Serengeti and Tarangire)

  • Read about Robert’s experience in Tarangire here.
  • Find out more about hot air balloon safaris and other unforgettable safari experiences here.

4.Christmas Cracker – traditional cool, colourful cotton Kenyan Kikoys (try saving that after a few sherries) from £25. We love these ones from Blue Summer.

5.Flight of Angels – fly high over Victoria Falls, from £100 – £180 per person. A fabulous way to take in the full drama of this natural spectacle.

  • See a video of the Flight of Angels here.
  • There are many excursions from Victoria Falls – you can get some ideas here.
  • See sample safari itineraries in Zimbabwe and Zambia.

6.Trumpet Fanfare – adopt an elephant, from US $50 per year. Enjoy monthly emails updating you on your elephant with pictures and videos.

  • Find out more about the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust fostering programme here.
  • Read about Kithaka and Arruba, the elephants fostered by the Real Africa Trust here.

7.Give a Great White Christmas – adventurous cage diving in South Africa from £120 per person. It  might not be the most obvious thing to give your loved one, but cage diving with  a Great White in South Africa’s glorious Cape is sure to be an unforgettable experience.

Cage diving can be easily added to any tailormade safari in the Cape. Find out more about our safaris and holidays in South Africa here.
8.A Night with the Stars – sleep out under the great African night sky from US $625 per person per night. Romantic, wonderful, unforgettable – this is a real Christmas cracker. There are many lodges offering a star bed experience including Loisaba and Serian in Kenya, Little Kulala in Namibia, Tswalu in South Africa, Baines and Jao Camp in Botswana. We love Nkwichi on Lake Malawi and the Dove’s Nest at The Hide in Hwange. 

Read our blog about the best star beds in Africa here.

9.Jumbo Bells – Real Africa silver elephant pendant, from £140 each. These beautiful hand-finished eles, as worn by Saba Douglas-Hamilton, are made by jeweller, Penny Price and were specially commissioned by Real Africa for our 15th anniversary. 30% from each and every one (all the profit) is donated to conservation charity Save the Elephants.

To find out more or to order online please click here. Please note: due to overwhelming demand we are now looking at New Year deliveries!

10. Gold, Frankincence, Myrrh …and travel show tickets of course – let Brian Jackman, Monty Halls and other travel experts inspire you in the travel theatres and spend your day consulting the specialists about your future travels plans. Compliments of Real Africa.

Request your complimentary tickets to the new Telegraph Travel Show or Destinations Manchester or London here.

 

 

 

The 2019 wish-list: top five safari destinations to explore in 2019

VICTORIA FALLS AT HIGHEST LEVEL IN A DECADE

$
0
0
One of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, and the largest waterfall in the world based on height and width, Victoria Falls is situated on the Zambezi River at...

A Guide to the Victoria Falls Rainforest Walk

$
0
0
Victoria Falls, between Zambia and Zimbabwe is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the world’s largest curtain of falling water. The Zambezi River plunges 100m over a 1.7km wide series...
Viewing all 22 articles
Browse latest View live